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Sunday, May 24, 2009

Europe 4


So on 8 May 2009, at 5:30 in the morning Star and I headed on our most grand adventure together as of yet. We were headed to climb the 165m Aguglia at Cala Golorizte. An amazing beach surrounded by phenomenal cliffs and spires. Some touched and others yet to be developed.
We drove from our flat in Arbatax thru Baunei to a small parking lot. If you are planning to climb here and you arrive before the parking lot opens park before the camping sites. This will ensure that the farmers that own the parking lot will not think that you are trying to cheat them out of paying to park. There are tales of arriving back from a day of climbing to a car that has all four tires slashed.
We started the hour and a bit hike in. There is a marked path to Goloritze. The path a rock path, with cairns along the way that have GOLORIZTE carved into them.
The hike which starts out going up is very easy. It is made at a very low grade so many people will be able to enjoy this magical area. After you reach a flat section, you start your decent. You start to have short glimpses of the Spire. We passed by old Shepard huts along the way, which is a reminder at how old this island truly is.
Once we arrived to the base of the Aguglia we were totally captivated at her beauty. We did not have a full idea of the surrounding beauty, but this would become more apparent as we ascended Aguglia. The route that we had picked out was Easy Gymnopedia, 6c, 6a obbl. The rock is pockmark covered. And there is a wide rang of diversity, of features, on this route. This route is five pitches long with the 6c second pitch being the crux pitch. The routes goes like this:

Pitch 1 is 6a over a rocky ledge, then up a flake to a larger ledge.

Pitch 2 is the crux pitch. There is a very slight traverse right, then two bolts, crux move and bolt. The crux move is very well protected. You can aid it easily. Then over another bulge to the next small ledge.

Pitch 3 has a small box at it with a summit book. This route moves up a delicate slab to another larger ledge. With a spot for a BD .5 or .75.

Pitch 4 traverses out left slightly to a somewhat exposed move that is protected with a BD #1, piton to a bolt at the finish, before the anchor.

Pitch 5 has a very delicate finish on a small piece of slab. This move to a decent sized ledge. Watch for loose rocks at the ledge!!!!!! This is not the summit. There still is 3m to the summit that is soloed. Very easy moves, to a bolt on top.

There was another team climbing next to us on another route from the start. We summitted at the same time. The summit was full that day. There were four of us up on top, with no more room for the third team that was just finishing there climb up Easy too. The third team bailed after they noticed that there was no room.
On top the other team, guys from Chec, started to abseiled down. At this point I pulled out the rings that I been caring in my trousers all day out. Star lit up even more by the sight of the rings we would wear for the rest of our lives. We exchanged our vows to one another and we wed on top of a wonderful spire in an even more amazing place, on an incredible island. the sun shown like I have never seen that day. Every moment of that day will be in my memory for ever.
After we abseiled down we headed to the beach and soaked in the most amazing atmosphere we have ever seen.
The hike out was rough. It took two hours of non-stop hiking to make it out. The sun was still high in the sky. We had started our day at 5:30am and finally made it back to the bar, that is located in the gated parking lot, for a beer at 6:30pm. There is nothing like a beer after climbing all day.
I would absolutely recommend this area to climb. But just remember that this is the most popular climb in all of Sardinia. So start early. Were were that around 7am and two teams showed up right behind us.
The next day we were headed to Cala Ganone. For a rest day at the beach. I wonder how long Eddie would make it just sitting there.

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