Peace

I guess it should really be called "Jack's summer vacation that Eddie just tagged along on". But anyway, I followed Jack and his chi chi(father) to his second house on Monday morning, which is 5 mins to the first real Japanese climbing area ever established, Ogawayama. The area has wonderful bouldering and even better sport and trad routes. The first day, after we settled into his killer house, Jack showed me around the bouldering area at Ogawayama. We first climbed on Whale rock and then a couple of the lines on some of the boulders around the whale. Most notable of the problems we climbed in this area are Captain Able v5 and the v3 to the left of it. The V3 was totally killer. a tall problem that moves through some small pockets and ends on a slopper top out. Captain Able is on the same steep face moving through a left hand crack to a very very small left hand crimp throw to a slopper jug. TOUGH. But super fun. I made it to the slopper jug but could not make it to the top. We ended the day with some good beer and very nice cool weather. Yona Yona which is the hoppiest beer I have come across yet is not bad and made locally to this area.

The next day Jack took me to one of his secret climbing areas. With 12 routes currently established and probably 15 more possible this area is sweet. There are a few 10's, More 11's and a few 12's. I was very excited to climb some lines. We climbed a few and then decided to bolt a new line. After a few hours of cleaning and working the moves and cleaning some more the line was complete. We are going to go back on Tuesday next week and I will try and get the FA. It feels like 11d/12a. Jack agrees, but time will tell. A quick stop at the on sen and then we ate a delicious meal of pork, rice, whole garlic cloves, Yona beer, and veggies.

On Wednesday we made it back to the first bouldering area that Jack took me to a few weeks ago. I tried to FA the super cool slopper problem on the trail but with three days on was I was low on skin. After five or six attempts Jack sent first go. Strong work Jack!! Later we hiked up the trail to a cool looking pyramid looking rock that has a splendid left arete. We cleaned the problem off and I sent on the third go. FA v3 named after my son to be Gavin's Arete. Maybe one day he will climb it too. We will see. Jack promptly sent as well. We then walked over to some more projects that Jack has his eyes on. And then it happened. It started to rain. And rain it did. After a dip in the on sen we drove back to Jacks base camp and I had to head home. I made it back in just over two hours. I am very happy that there is such great climbing so close to home. And not to mention a great climbing partner to show me around. I can not wait to show Gavin and Star these wonderful places.

This weekend is the Friendship Festival on base. The base opens up to the public and thousands of folks come and view all of the planes, drink, and eat. Should be fun. Star and I will go together on Saturday, but then she works on Sunday. Which means I am going climbing. Yes. I love the way that sounds. Tuesday we are heading back to the secret route area and who know from there.

Go Climb Something....cause you know I will be!!!!!!!!!

Moving into the crux from the top, nothing up there

All I can say is that I love this car. Star named him Stitch because when you lock the doors the rear view mirrors automatically fold in. The car is in great condition for a 2000. Here are a few photos I took on the fly today.

Enjoy.

Crazy food at the 7/11

Corn, mayo, chilly, and hot dog??

Weird chip selection

I also signed up to take a photo journalism class once a week for the next four weeks. Should be cool. A side note, we were walking around the other day and wondered into a convince store and found some very interesting items. Check out the photos.

We are going to a festival today in Fussa. Not sure what it is about but everyone says it is supposed to be cool. Photos to follow on that. Tuesday I am heading back into the mountains with Jack. So hopefully I will send a project or two and find some new ones.

So long for now and remember....

Go Climb Something!!!!!

Jack on a Fun v4 with a v6 alternate start

I met up with Jack and we headed to one of his secret bouldering areas for some stone pulling. We arrived in the morning to great temps. Jack showed me many, many wonderful problems. Several of the boulders were still wet but that would change as the sun came out and dried the boulders. Until then we climbed very steep lines through sloper arete and pockets. Totally rad.

We worked a steep arete face looking for the FA. The top was still wet. It will probably go at v5. Jack showed me a stellar 12 ft roof that moves through three pockets with a dyno at the end v5 or 6. Yet again we top out. We used a ton of chalk to try and dry the top but it only dried as the sun came through the trees.

We climbed a cool v2 with a dry sloper finsh. Next to the v2 is a very cool v5 that includes pockets, two gaston moves, and a sloper finish with good feet. We climbed a couple more problems after including a cool v4 with a killer heal hook dead point to the summit. On the walk back to the car we walked past a dozen more boulders with 1 to 3 problems on them. This area has so much potential!!

After the climb we drove to a cool hot springs. I had never been to a Japanese hot springs. The relaxation of the springs after a great session is wonderful. Today I am going to try and go check out Yugi Hirayama's gym. I really need to train.

So long from the land of the raising sun and remember.....

Go Climb Something!!!!!!!