Thursday, March 12, 2009
Being a climber in Louisiana isn’t as bad as it sounds. Living in Louisiana allows one to enjoy the wonderful culture, great live music, and easy-going mentality found in most New Orleaneans. As an avid climber, however, one must travel to climb outside.
Any outside climbing endeavor starts with a road trip. Road trips are a very common topic amongst climbers. At some point, every climber has been asked, “Do you travel to climb or climb to travel?” Since my fiancé and I live in New Orleans we must travel in order to climb. Luckily, we both love to travel, so our climbing adventures often satisfy two desires at once.
I started climbing just two and a half years ago but, I feel like I have been climbing for many years. A friend and I happened upon a local climbing gym’s website and decided to check it out. We loved backpacking and wanted to experience the mountains without leaving Louisiana. So, what better way than a climbing gym? I knew after the first night that this was an activity I wanted to try again and before long I was hooked. I started going on trips outside and meeting other climbers. I moved and found another climbing gym and met some of my best friends.
The challenge of climbing appealed to me right away. While I was athletic in high school and played on several teams I never really pushed myself. Climbing allowed me to develop my ability to focus in a way that was completely new. I’m not a competitive person so the comaraderie that climbing fosters really appeals to me. I love how after a failed attempt on a boulder problem someone can give you different beta and the next time you try it, you send it easily. Climbing has drastically molded my outlook on life. Each problem or route is completely different for every person who climbs it. For me, that moment when you push yourself to the edge of your ability and focus only on your next move is one of my favorite experiences.
The closest area for an all around climber near New Orleans is Chattanooga, Tennessee. Chatta-Vegas, as some locals call it, is about seven and a half hours from NO. Here lies the down-side of living in the only state in the union without a developed crag. The great thing about Chattanooga is variety of climbing areas nearby, there are many trad, sport, and bouldering sites within a 30 mile radius of downtown. The true gem of the south, however, is a couple of hours closer in Steele, Al. Horse Pens 40 is a world class bouldering area that should be a must-visit area for any thrill-seeking boulderer on a road trip. They don’t call Fontainebleau the HP40 of France for nothing.
I’m an all-around climber and enjoy all types of climbing but my true love is for traditional (trad) climbing. My favorite location to climb trad in Tennessee is at Tennessee Wall or T-Wall. The lines here are unlike any other that I have seen in the southeast. Although the rumors about Steele Cliffs reopening are enticing I can’t imagine that this area will surpass T-Wall’s 339 documented routes.
My most recent climbing adventure took a group of friends and I to T-wall. I was accompanied by my good friend Alex, his fiancé Gracie and another friend Lori. Alex has been a huge influence on my life as a climber. He is one of the most accomplished and competent climbers I’ve known. At this point I had yet to lead a 10a on trad. I was very excited and Alex had a few climbs in mind for me to climb. I was able to get off of work early on Friday and met up with everyone to start our eight hour journey. We arrived late and started our ritual.
Set up our tents and popped open some warm beers.
The next day we headed to the crag fairly early knowing it was going to be a long day. We arrived around 10:00am to a totally packed parking lot and started the moderate 20 minute hike up to the base of the wall. Despite the crowded parking lot and large number of people out enjoying the crag we didn’t have to wait for a single climb. We had two ropes and Alex decided to climb Finagle 5.9 as a warm-up and I decided to climb Sanscrit 5.8 to warm up. Alex had wanted to climb In Pursuit of Excellence 5.9 for a long time but was, like may, distracted by the plethora of classic climbs that must be climbed. He sent it no problem. Then his fiancée, Gracie, sent it. Then I sent it sitting on it through the crux - I’m not known for my hand to fist-sized crack capabilities. Our friend Lori climbed it as well.
From there we climbed Standard Deviation 10a/b on Alex’s lead and Shiva’s Last dance 5.9. Standard Deviation is a fantastic climb through a four tiered roof. It is exposed but very fun, a total jug fest at the top. The first day on a trad trip is spent getting used to placing gear again and re-familiarizing yourself with your rack. It often takes a few routes to remember what your finger to hand sized cam is after not using them in over a month. We ended the day with another ritual stop at Lupi’s for some killer Pizza and vast beer selection.
The next day I was ready to on-sight my first 10a. I warmed up on Golden Locks 5.8 and belayed Alex on Digital Macabre 10b. I spent some time surveying the finger/hand crack to find good placements and rests. After a few minutes I was ready to send. I geared up and started up. After two placements I had to get Alex to toss up another .75 Camalot. I was able to make it thru the first set of fingers but sat on a piece after my right toe started to sting. I complained to Alex and received the right kind of motivation, “You got to turn that off man!” He was right. I was not as focused as I should have been. I started again and made it through the small roof, placed two pieces and sat again.
I failed to see a foot out right that made the next two moves seem two grades lower. I made it through the remainder of the climb with no problem. I was happy to have sent my first 10a but disappointed that I did not send it clean. Alex said that I looked great on it and I appreciated his encouragement, but knew I had disappointed him too. I told him that next time I would turn the pain off and send. It’s a total mind game when you’re up there, especially when you’re trying to on-sight at your hardest grade. I’m very confident that I will send it clean next trip and I have already picked out a few more 10a’s that I want to OS. We finished the day climbing a few more moderates and hit the road back home at 3pm.
On the way home, we discussed our excellent trip and began making plans for our next outing. We pondered our options for training during the week and decided on a trip back to T-wall in two weeks. I was planning a trip for the following weekend with another group of climbers since Alex had a party to attend. If the weather is bad, however, we may check out a new climbing area in Arkansas.
Any outside climbing endeavor starts with a road trip. Road trips are a very common topic amongst climbers. At some point, every climber has been asked, “Do you travel to climb or climb to travel?” Since my fiancé and I live in New Orleans we must travel in order to climb. Luckily, we both love to travel, so our climbing adventures often satisfy two desires at once.
I started climbing just two and a half years ago but, I feel like I have been climbing for many years. A friend and I happened upon a local climbing gym’s website and decided to check it out. We loved backpacking and wanted to experience the mountains without leaving Louisiana. So, what better way than a climbing gym? I knew after the first night that this was an activity I wanted to try again and before long I was hooked. I started going on trips outside and meeting other climbers. I moved and found another climbing gym and met some of my best friends.
The challenge of climbing appealed to me right away. While I was athletic in high school and played on several teams I never really pushed myself. Climbing allowed me to develop my ability to focus in a way that was completely new. I’m not a competitive person so the comaraderie that climbing fosters really appeals to me. I love how after a failed attempt on a boulder problem someone can give you different beta and the next time you try it, you send it easily. Climbing has drastically molded my outlook on life. Each problem or route is completely different for every person who climbs it. For me, that moment when you push yourself to the edge of your ability and focus only on your next move is one of my favorite experiences.
The closest area for an all around climber near New Orleans is Chattanooga, Tennessee. Chatta-Vegas, as some locals call it, is about seven and a half hours from NO. Here lies the down-side of living in the only state in the union without a developed crag. The great thing about Chattanooga is variety of climbing areas nearby, there are many trad, sport, and bouldering sites within a 30 mile radius of downtown. The true gem of the south, however, is a couple of hours closer in Steele, Al. Horse Pens 40 is a world class bouldering area that should be a must-visit area for any thrill-seeking boulderer on a road trip. They don’t call Fontainebleau the HP40 of France for nothing.
I’m an all-around climber and enjoy all types of climbing but my true love is for traditional (trad) climbing. My favorite location to climb trad in Tennessee is at Tennessee Wall or T-Wall. The lines here are unlike any other that I have seen in the southeast. Although the rumors about Steele Cliffs reopening are enticing I can’t imagine that this area will surpass T-Wall’s 339 documented routes.
My most recent climbing adventure took a group of friends and I to T-wall. I was accompanied by my good friend Alex, his fiancé Gracie and another friend Lori. Alex has been a huge influence on my life as a climber. He is one of the most accomplished and competent climbers I’ve known. At this point I had yet to lead a 10a on trad. I was very excited and Alex had a few climbs in mind for me to climb. I was able to get off of work early on Friday and met up with everyone to start our eight hour journey. We arrived late and started our ritual.
Set up our tents and popped open some warm beers.The next day we headed to the crag fairly early knowing it was going to be a long day. We arrived around 10:00am to a totally packed parking lot and started the moderate 20 minute hike up to the base of the wall. Despite the crowded parking lot and large number of people out enjoying the crag we didn’t have to wait for a single climb. We had two ropes and Alex decided to climb Finagle 5.9 as a warm-up and I decided to climb Sanscrit 5.8 to warm up. Alex had wanted to climb In Pursuit of Excellence 5.9 for a long time but was, like may, distracted by the plethora of classic climbs that must be climbed. He sent it no problem. Then his fiancée, Gracie, sent it. Then I sent it sitting on it through the crux - I’m not known for my hand to fist-sized crack capabilities. Our friend Lori climbed it as well.
From there we climbed Standard Deviation 10a/b on Alex’s lead and Shiva’s Last dance 5.9. Standard Deviation is a fantastic climb through a four tiered roof. It is exposed but very fun, a total jug fest at the top. The first day on a trad trip is spent getting used to placing gear again and re-familiarizing yourself with your rack. It often takes a few routes to remember what your finger to hand sized cam is after not using them in over a month. We ended the day with another ritual stop at Lupi’s for some killer Pizza and vast beer selection.The next day I was ready to on-sight my first 10a. I warmed up on Golden Locks 5.8 and belayed Alex on Digital Macabre 10b. I spent some time surveying the finger/hand crack to find good placements and rests. After a few minutes I was ready to send. I geared up and started up. After two placements I had to get Alex to toss up another .75 Camalot. I was able to make it thru the first set of fingers but sat on a piece after my right toe started to sting. I complained to Alex and received the right kind of motivation, “You got to turn that off man!” He was right. I was not as focused as I should have been. I started again and made it through the small roof, placed two pieces and sat again.
I failed to see a foot out right that made the next two moves seem two grades lower. I made it through the remainder of the climb with no problem. I was happy to have sent my first 10a but disappointed that I did not send it clean. Alex said that I looked great on it and I appreciated his encouragement, but knew I had disappointed him too. I told him that next time I would turn the pain off and send. It’s a total mind game when you’re up there, especially when you’re trying to on-sight at your hardest grade. I’m very confident that I will send it clean next trip and I have already picked out a few more 10a’s that I want to OS. We finished the day climbing a few more moderates and hit the road back home at 3pm.On the way home, we discussed our excellent trip and began making plans for our next outing. We pondered our options for training during the week and decided on a trip back to T-wall in two weeks. I was planning a trip for the following weekend with another group of climbers since Alex had a party to attend. If the weather is bad, however, we may check out a new climbing area in Arkansas.
Go Climb Something!!
