Pages

Monday, August 31, 2009

Little River Canyon

This past weekend a buddy and I decided to go check out some new areas that we had not climbed yet too. We wanted to see what the concave was all about. I had never been to Unshackled so I really wanted to check that out. On Thursday night we stayed at the T.A.S. campground right on the LRC. Friday we drove down to Unshackled and climbed a few of the routes. The 10d and a couple of 11s. Tommy wanted to climb the 13 next to Unshackled so we walked over and he made it through the first crux and fell at the second. He finished the route no problem and left his draws, he had some unfinished business with this route.
Next we went to the Concave, RAD!!!!!!! Very nice. I found this spicy 11 that I worked a few times and was very close to redpointing. Tommy on the other had worked Word a few times and finally redpointed it on Saturday. Good work Tommy!!! Word!!!
The next day I had to leave early so we walked down to the Ninja Wall and we were underwhelmed. We walked down to what we thought was the lizard wall and it turned out to be Crazy House. Very impressive area!!! We climbed an 11b and another buddy of ours met up us., Mike I had to roll and mike and Tommy were left to crush it in the not so hot, not so cool LRC.
I only have one good shot. It is of Tommy when we first walked up the the Concave. Enjoy!!!
Monday, August 17, 2009

Great Stick Clip Design



I am about to go on a climbing trip to Alabama and Tennessee. One of the areas that I am going to is Little River Canyon. LRC is wonderful. The steep and overhanging routes are a must visit. But at LRC, like most hard sport areas, you need a stick clip. I have not had one for the last few trips to LRC and wish that I did. So the question is should I buy one or make one.
I found a few designs on the web that looked very adequate. Considering that in the past all I have used is a dead tree limb any design is a drastic improvement. Or is it? The designs from Trango and Superstick look to be the best, but I have not used either. The customer comments online seem very mixed. Some people like how simple they are but comment on how fragile they are. Epic Sports design seems OK but the fact that you have to use tent poles turns me off. If I was hiking far to a sport crag it would make sense, but for now I am not. I just want to find a basic stick clip head that I can attach to a painters extender pole and call it a day. One that I could use to remove a draw and clip the rope in are features that are important too of course. After searching it looks that if I were to buy one it would be the Trango unit the Squid. As I was highly considering pulling the trigger on mountaingear.com for 29.95 plus tax I decided to see about making my own.
I searched stick clip tricks and came across two homemade designs that appear to be legit. The taped carpenters clamp to the painters pole and the hanger that takes more time to build but seemed to be the right choice for me. I have used the clamp stick clip before and was not overly impressed. It definitely works but I want something that will last. I do not want to have to buy tape all of the time. I want something that is simple and does not require assembly every time. The hanger unit idea is from Tom's dirtbag climbing gear tricks, www.tom.grundy.tripod.com/basedir/camfix.html
I found the thickest hanger I could find and started to mold it. It was done in no time. I have two different sized draws so I have to alter the design that I found online, but in the end a perfect hanger stick clip was the result. I went to Lowe's and procured a paint roller, epoxy, a 10 ft painters extender pole( that was the lightest there), and a 3 ft long 1/8" brass wire.
I pulled the roller arm out of the paint roller and epoxied the hanger in its place. After the epoxy dried I was done. It was very easy. The pictures show tools and materials needed to complete this task. If you want one just let me know. I love the fact that I do not need to use tape to make this work too. Very solid.



I am interested in making the hanger wire thicker if I can find wire that will not break when I am tiring to fabricate. The brass brakes after two or three twists. I will use the hanger for now but plan to make a second out of thicker material.

I also have some ideas on making my second unit cheaper and lighter.

The cost now is far below that of all the other units I found. The Epic Sports is only $9.95 but you still have to buy tent pole extenders. That adds $25 very quick.
I will post a update after next weekend on how it works and any changes that should be made.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009

New Climbing Wall Found in NOLA





A very good friend of mine, Bobby, built a climbing wall in a spair room in his house. I had been talking about checking it out, but never made it. Well last night I finally make it over. His wall is great. It is a very steep 40 degrees. Then moves to the ceiling and finally traverses to the opposite wall. It is a great change from the Massey's wall. Don't get me wrong, the wall at Massey's is perfect, but it is nice to climb on different holds every once in a while. Diversity is very good.
He has a tv that he plays climbing DVDs on during the sesh for motivation. And not to mention that it is A/c'ed. I am very pleased with is setup. Looks like a third wall will never hurt. I can not wait to go back and finish some problems that I was working. Bobby has set the routes by color, which is great. Each colored set of holds make a problem and are very diverse in difficulty. He purchased a several holds from So iLL, the same company that supplied the holds for problem number one at the recent bouldering comp in SLC.
He is still planning to add more holds throughout on the blank areas. A climbing wall is never complete. There is always more work to be done. Stay tuned for more climbing in NOLA. We're gonna put this place on the map!!!!
Saturday, August 1, 2009

Three Words: Wind River Range!!



On Sunday Lori, Chris and I headed for the Wind River Range. We were planning on climbing in the Cirque of Towers. We arrived late on Sunday night and slept just down from the trailhead. The next morning there were very ominous clouds and we were very split on weather we should hike the eight miles just to see if we could climb. We decided that no matter what, we had to see the Cirque. We started hiking in around 10am on Monday.


The hike is absolutely beautiful. There is wildlife all over the place. It is amazing. The marmots are definitely abundant. You have to worry about the rodents not bears in the Winds.
Chris hiking past Big Sandy Lake
The clouds cleared for the first half of the hike but by the time we hiked to the end of Big Sandy Lake the clouds had returned.
Big Sandy Lake
We found a rock that was overhanging enough to enjoy lunch. After the clouds cleared he hiked the remainder of the trail.
Just before Arrowhead lake there is a climbers trail that turns left from the main trail. It is in a patch of field. If you are going to climb in the Cirque this will same you the 45 minutes to hike up Jackass Pass. Traverse through the boulders and make your way to the obvious ridge. Once there you will be overwhelmed by the view of the Cirque.


The view from the climbers trail ridge.




The setting sun on the Wolf's Head and Pingora to the right


Everyone told us that the mosquitoes were going to be bad. So we decided to hike farther up into the cirque to set up basecamp. The skeeters were bad but the head nets helped. Do not forget the deet. It is clutch.




My tent with Mt. Mitchel in the background

We found a great spot just below Wolf's Head. This also set us up for a great head start on the East ridge route and Pingora that we planned to climb, pending weather. The views from our camp belong in a book.
At 3:45am the next morning I felt like shit. I had a head ache, was very tired, had a stiff neck, and was very fatigued. Chris pushed me really hard to go after it, so I hiked up with them in the dark to the start of the 3rd class to the ridge. I could not do it. I couldn't even catch my breath. I had AMS, Altitude Mountain Sickness. We were sleeping a over 10,000 feet. The summit was just over 12,000. After sitting a bit and still not being able to catch my breath I headed back down to camp. Chris and Lori would tell me later how much of a mistake this was. The East Ridge route was spectacular. They had a great time. Apparently the north side of Darth Vader is a very exposed 5.7 pitch. I am already planning to go back next year. The next day the weather was really stormy and foggy so we decided to head out early and climb in Colorado. We hiked out in the fog, which was very tricky not being able to see. We made it back to the main trail and eventually the car in a matter of a few hours. I am very disappointed that I was not able to climb in the Winds but I sure have some good beta for my next trip.

When we arrived at Fort Collins we climbed at the Hoursetooth Reservoir. It was great. HR is where John Gill started to boulder for the first time. It is also the spot of one of the most popular problems in the states, Pinch Overhang. Of course I left my camera in the car so no climbing porn from HR, sorry. But we climbed two or three fun problems on punk rock and the Mental block. There is a reason that they call in the mental block. It is totally a mind screw when you are on these problems. John Gill really had some God strength when he put these problems up. Props to you John.

After Ft. Collins it was time to head to NOLA. I made it in 24 hours. That includes stops for gas and food. I did eat in the car though. I very anxious to see Star.

Looking back at the trip it was truly an eventful and fantastic trip. From OR, Eldo, Boulder, to the amazing state of Wyoming, it was incredible. I learned a ton about climbing in the mountains. All I can say is thanks Chris. You really came through man.

Speaking of, Yo Chris!! When are we going to do that 11b R Copp route on the Watchtower? I'm in!!!