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Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Rumney, Rumney and Home
















The drive to Rumney was brilliant!! It only took a couple of hours and we were there. As we were driving east on Hwy 25 we pulled around Rattlesnake Mtn. and started to get excited when we say the cliffs of Rumney. We did not have a guide so we thought it would be cool to go to the local gear shop and try and get sprayed. It turned out that the closest thing was closed and it also was the climbing gym.

Since it was closed we figured that there would be climbers there, and climbers are always receptive to questions. We drove through Rumney to the first trail head. It was supposed to be cloudy weather but at this point it was sunny with blue skies. We payed the $3 day use fee and headed to the Parking Lot Wall for a warm up. I am not able to name the routes that we did but starting at the main wall we climbed every route on the wall that was not wet. The most fun was a 5.9 far right over a couple of bulges. There were a few routes that looked great but were wet from the rain the day before.

We bumped into a few locals that gave us a spray down and even took us the the Main Wall for a tour. They showed us what we should climb and what we shouldn't. We ended up climbing Underdog 10a. It was obvious from the ground why it was considered a classic. But after climbing it, I wanted it to go another 300 meters. This was my second favorite route on the whole trip, only behind High Exposure in the Gunks. Star Flashed it after me and we headed to do on last line before we had to leave. The wind was starting to pick up and clouds were forming. We climbed a new route only about 50 feet but 5.9+. It has a no hands knee bar about 10 feet off of the ground. The line moves up through side pull jugs to an arete that is great. The fourth bolt is higher than I wanted it to be but it was a great way to end the day.

All in all Rumney was a great choice and wonderful experience. I can not wait to go again. I can say that about all of the places that we visited on our trip. The entire trip, even to Shanty Cliffs was a great experience. Now star can lead on trad and I have seen my tibia.

Next BIG trip is to Thailand in January. Before that we are training for the Triplecrown at HP40 and getting amped for Tennessee Wall season. I do have to say that it will be a little different this year without Alex, but I will try and make him proud and keep the spirit alive!!!!!
Now its off to work and then training 5 days a week for the TC and Thailand!!!!

Burlington for a Day

Here are a few photos from Pok-o-Moonshine:












The climbing Gym Petra Cliffs is a cool gym. Its walls are about 35 feet tall. There are lead routes all over the gym and there is a separate bouldering area located on the second floor. There are taped routes all over the place. Which is something that our local gym is working on.

At the gym we asked where we could go climb due to the wet weather and everyone said Rumney. The routes there are overhanging enough that they are not wet in the rain. I had not even considered going there. I have read and heard about it for a long time and wanted to visit one day but I had not idea that it would be on this trip. So we decided to make the two hour drive to Rumney, NH.

One problem to going to Rumney was that not only did we not have a guide, but the guide for the area is out of print. We would try and download topos at the BnB later that night.

Star and I climbed here for about three hours and decided to grab a bite to eat before we headed for the BnB that we were going to be staying at.

We finally were able to procure a few topos but they would have to be viewed on my computer that has a bad battery and does not work unless it is plugged in. So we said screw it and drove out early on Monday morning.

Rumney here we come!!!!
Sunday, September 27, 2009

The Shanty Cliffs








































What a day. It started with a great breakfast at the BnB and then we headed to the Shanty Cliffs in the Dacks. We did have to hike through a shallow river but it was great!!! We wanted Star to run up her first trad lines on lead and to check out some new rock, anorthosite. Anorthosite is very interesting. It reminded me of granite without the bite. Very sticky. And not to mention that we were the only ones there.

Well, Star climbed her first trad line no problem she followed it with a great run out lead on a 5.9 sport route. I climbed a few lines and just enjoyed the beautiful weather. The trees here are just starting to change and it is beautiful. Well the last line of the day was a great 10a over a few bulgy roofs and up a vertical crack. This was the line of the day. Super fun!!! Three bolts at the bottom and trad the rest. Star loved this route.

On the hike out I stepped on a loose rock and lacerated my leg. It hurt like the dickens. We worked together and made a pressure bandage out of my favorite HP40 shirt. It was starting to get dark and we were worried about bears. We made noise but of course we were moving very slow at this point. Steep terrain and one good leg do not mix well. We made it back to the car and eventually to the hospital. After a 4.5 hour visit I have 5 sutures and I have seen my tibia. Which is whiter that I thought it was.

The next day I was very bummed and was very interested to see it I could push myself to climb. Well on Saturday after a rest day on Friday Star and I decided to head to Pok-o-Moonshine and see. Star lead her second trad line and rocked it. I felt good so I lead it next with not problem and decided to push it a little bit more. We found a slabby line with two large bulges in it. I was going to lead this puppy. I made it to the first bulge with no problem. To get over the bulge it is a very awkward move. I placed a solid BD .75. And made my was up and placed a bomber .5 as I was going to clip it I slipped off of the sit pull and fell 12 feet on slab. Ouch!!!! It was not bad. It was exhilarating though. I sent the line next go and the line is stiff for the 5.8+ that it was given in '59.

Today, Sunday, the weather is very poor. Rainy and cold. So we are headed to a climbing gym in Burlington. This town is very hip too. Great area, beautiful sights. Not to mention that we took a ferry across Lake Champlain.

Till next time, be careful out the way out of the woods. Or end up with sutures!!!!!
Friday, September 25, 2009

Photos From the Gunks




























Monday, September 21, 2009

THE GUNKS!!!!!!

Star and I are in New Paltz now having a wonderful time at the Gunks. We have a huge tick list and will probably not make it through half of it before we have to head to the Adirondacks. Too bad for us. On Saturday we arrived to town early enough to check out the town, trail head, and set up the tent in daylight. This is a first for us considering that we always drive straight to climb. We climbed 5 pitches the first day. It was uber busy and we had some trouble finding an open route. We warmed up on Frogs head, then headed over to Limelight. Both are great routes. Limelight being the harder of the two. After we had a much needed snack we walked down to try and climb Classic or Jackie but both had lines. We settled for a 5.8-, Dirty Gerdie, that was harder than any 5.9 I have ever tried in my life.

Today on day two we had plans to climb four routes. We made it up two SUPER classic lines, High Exposure and CCK. High E is by far the best line that I have climbed in a long time. It is in my top five for sure. The exposure on the second pitch is wonderfully exciting!!! CCK on the other hand is was very hard. The route's second pitch had a fare amount of drag and was tough to lead, but I can see how it is so popular.

We took our time on the summits and tried to take in all of the beautiful sights and the peace and quiet. Tomorrow we are going up Madame G, Shockley's Ceiling, and Arrow. That will make 8 pitches. We are really excited!!! Stay tuned for photos in the next post.


We Out!!!
Sunday, September 13, 2009

Here are Some Randoms from Labor Day

Here are a few shots from the our last trip on Labor Day. Enjoy!!!!


















































Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Labor Day Climbing Trip

Me dropping from the top of a 30ft line
Photo by Caleb Izdepski



So this past labor Day weekend a rather large group of friends went on a deep water soloing trip to Tennessee. It would turn out to be ominous weather over the course of the weekend, but deep water soloing on steep rock in the rain, is just fine.

A few of us left on Friday morning and headed straight to Little River Canyon. LRC is a great place for steep climbing. See previous post. We went to the classic Grey Wall area. Will and Bobby lead up the wall on some 11s. They both loved the roofs at the top. Very tough but very fun. We wound up with three ropes and three leaders. It was the first time that I had climbed with Blair outside. She seemed to be enjoying herself. We climbed about four routes and had to head out due to our late arrival. We headed to what would turn out to be our three night camp site, Shellmound Campground. Shellmound is very close to the DWS spot and to Foster Falls. Dave had secured us a pontoon boat for the next day in advance so all we had to do was pick it up the next day. We stayed up late that night partying and getting shwasted!!! Great fun.

The next day with 14 people on hand we set out for a day of DWS. My buddy Sam brought his Jet ski along which was really fun. We had a canoe to ferry people to and fro from das boat. The weather was not very good, but we were deep water soloing. It didn't matter if there was a little rain. But it did suck when you would get out of the luke warm water and the wind would kick up.
Bobby was blown away by the quality of Limestone that is there. Chris was ready to push it on some great lines. I was overdue for some airy finishes. We warmed up on a 10a one move wonder through some pockets. Everyone seemed to enjoy it. Some of us climbed the roofs and many tufas that the wall has to offer. Chris had the best performance of the day sending what appeared to be a tough 11 or 12 that kept spitting him off at about 30ft. He really was making it happen on that line. Great job Chris!!!

Part of the reason I was out was to test the new Mountain Khakis synthetic shorts from the Snake River collection. I wore them the entire weekend and was very pleased with the way that they performed. I was really interested in how they performed on the rock. It turns out that they are just as sweet as all of my other MKs. I thought that they might be tight and restricting once they were wet. This was not the case at all. They are very light weight and dried a bit between each climb on the boat. I have to say that these are definitely my go to short now for back country activity. After three days of climbing in them there was barely a hint of body odor. I do have to add that having the zippered pockets was clutch for putting my shades, cards and keys in. Great product yet again MKs!!!!
That night we yet again made our holistic journey to Lupis'. We love Lupis' pizza. Not only do we love the pizza there, but they offer an excellent selection of beers too. Not to mention the Fat Tire on tap!!!!
The next day we woke up to very dismal weather. We decided to go into Chatta-Vegas and check out the new climbing gym, Urban Rocks Gym. URG is a wonderful gym made by Rock Works. They did an great job. They have an excellent mix of top rope, lead areas, kids corner, and bouldering. I do not have any photos from the gym but trust me, it is well worth checking out when your in town. After the gym we went to see a movie. We headed back to the camp in the rain and had a few more beers and a gin n juice.
We were only able to climb outside two days and once indoors, but we were able to hang out as a group. We do not get to spend a ton of time together as a whole. So when we can it's great. I love to hang out with friends at the crag just as much as climbing at the crag. That's what cragging is for me.
Anyway, Star and I are prepping for our trip to climb in the Dacks and the Gunks. We will be leaving on the 19th to fly into Albany. Our first stop will be the Gunks. I am working hard on my endurance to be as fit as I can for this trad-stravaganza!!!! On the way to the Dacks we are planning to hang with the g-rents for a few.
Stay tuned for more photos from the Labor Day trip and my past trip to Wyoming. Thanks again to Mountain Khakis, Massey's, and Nebula Multimedia for making all of these trips that much better!!!!

Go Climb Something!!!!