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Saturday, December 26, 2009

Star @ Brech














Here are some shots from Star's latest boarding trip to Brech.

Thailand is Around the Corner!!!!











First I'd like to say "Merry-Happy Hona-Kwana-Mas!!!!" Next is we are headed to Thailand in 6 days!!!!!!
We are going to Thailand for about three weeks Jan 1. We have a loose plan but, here is what we have so far.
We are flying to Thailand and landing on the 2nd in Bangkok. We take a flight on the 3rd to Phuket and use a longboat to go to Tonsai beach. We are staying on the beach!!!! The world class climbing is just a 5 min walk from our bungalow. We usu ally over extend ourselves so this trip we are only staying on Tonsai Beach. We are planning on taking a couple of day trips to Phi Phi island, where The Beach was filmed. We plan to climb some hard classic lines. My goal, in terms of climbing, is to send a 12a. I have my sights on a few, but we will see what motivates me. Star's goal is to ride an elephant.
In other news I am signed up to get my first AMGA cert. in March. I am headed to Red Rocks in Nevada. I am very excited!! Star gave me several text books required for the classes for Christmas. She sure is great!!! And another note I am looking more into Search and Rescue courses that I can take through the ambulance services that I work for. SnR is a large part of why I transitioned into emergency medicine. I will keep everyone updated on our trip in Thailand. Chat soon.

The pictures are from the web. I thought you might like seeing where we are headed.



Go Climb Something!!!!!!!
Monday, December 21, 2009

Chattanooga, Fantastic as Usual

































So last weekend Cody and I headed for Chatty. We left after I was finished with work and camped at HP40 Thursday night. It was 25F. We woke early and I showed him around a bit and we rolled out. Drove straight to Tennessee Wall.
As we hiked up the overcast sky started to clear. The temps jumped at least 10 to 15 degrees. By the time we geared up and I was ready to climb it was blue sky, sun and 50F. What I call a T-Wall day. We ran up a classic 5.7 and 5.8. Cody had not climbed outside in three years so I did not know what to expect. Turns out he did not take any rests on either line.

That night we went into town and eat at Lupis. We crashed at the T-Wall camping area and and woke to cold overcast weather. I was not pumped to start climbing. It looked like the forecast was calling on rain for early afternoon so we decided to get at least one or two line in. We wound up climbing one, Razor WORM 5.8 or 9. It was a fun route. I always warm up on Goldenlocks 5.8+ to then play on Cake Walk 10a, which is the first ten that I lead on gear last season. The clouds started to rolling so we decided not to chance it and hiked out. We made it to town and caught a movie. We drove in the rain to Desoto State Park and camped there for the night. We were meeting up with our buddy Mike to crush in the rain. You ask where can one crush in the rain, Little River of course. We went to the Unshackled wall for some fun. It turned out that the rain was coming in from an angle and all that was clean to climb was Iron Mike 12a. Mike lead first and found out that the town was wet. He was not able to send it due to the crux being soaked, but was able to get through the crux and whip. I gave it a go and made it through the crux but it was too wet to clip the chains. It will go down on my next trip out. Warming up on a 12a is rough for sure.

We rolled out after that but I was able to get Cody pumped back up to climb again. I think that he is going to start to get out more with me to send.
Oh yea, a big congrats goes out to Cody for becoming the newest member of the College Ambassador program with Mountain Khakis. Way to go bro. Where your MK's everywhere!!!!!!!!
Friday, December 4, 2009

Headed to Chatty!!!

I am finally going to try and head up to T-Wall next weekend. I have several projects that I hope I can wrap up. I have been bouldering an ass ton over the last two months trying to build my power but I have neglected my endurance in the process. With this in mind I know it will take a day or so to get back in the swing of things on a rope but I hope that all of the individual moves will feel easier due to the intense bouldering schedule that I have been trying to ad hear to.

So the plan is to head out either Thursday night after work or Friday morning bright and early, 5am. Head straight to T-Wall and warm-up on the hike and play on some 9s and 10as. Then get ready for the showdown. I have misplaced my tick list but I have been eyeing Finger Locking Good for a while. Standard Deviation, Digital Macabre, and In Pursuit of Excellence. And the list goes on and on.

On Sunday I was thinking of headed to either Dayton or Stone Fort for some unfinished business. I will be taking tons of photos on this trip. The time that I have to climb here in the southeast is diminishing everyday. I will miss this wonderful sandstone ever so much. Till then stay tuned for more photos and stories from the rocks.


Go Climb Something!!!!!
Thursday, December 3, 2009

Big Sky


Big Sky, Montana


Since it is starting to get cold down here in New Orleans I thought that it was time to spread the snow love.
Sunday, November 29, 2009

Wolf's Head





This is the Wolf's Head formation in the Cirque of Towers in the Wind River Range.
Saturday, November 28, 2009

Mountain Khakis New Snake River Short


I love them, what more can I say.

Sedona and her Beautiful Sandstone




Eddie climbing the Watchtower 11d at the Church Spires in Seona, Az.
Monday, November 23, 2009

Capitol Reef Nat. Park





Walking to climb a classic 5.8, 10b, and 12a. I love the desert more than any other terrain.
Sunday, November 22, 2009

Red River Gorge






This is a photo of my buddy Alex. He is climbing Fuzzy Undercling 11b.
Saturday, November 14, 2009

HP Triple Crown Week

Dayton Roof

Dayton Roof

The start to the v5 on Dayton roof





Dayton Roof




A fun v2 warm up at the lf of roof




The top out of a v9 by the water




Bobby climbing a v3 at HP





Star on the super classic Stranger v2






This past weekend was the Horse Pens Triple Crown. My buddy Bobby and I drove up to HP on Friday morning. It was wonderful weather. The temps were nice and the sky was blue. I was in the mood to climb. We played around and set up our tents in an area that another buddy Jay saved for our group.
We had an excellent group this year. It was lacking two core member, Alex and Gracie. But it is hard to feel bad for Alex since he is in Italy crushing it in a new trad crag that he is developing 15 mins from his house. We wound up having nine of us for the event. Saturday was great as usual. We played around on some great warm ups and had a slow go at sends. The party that night was super fun. I wound up talking to Dave at So'ill and buying several of his holds. Their holds are sick. Bobby has been using them for years and he loves them.
On Sunday we climbed for a couple of hours the Bobby and I headed to Stone Fort. I had never been there before. It is a very cool place. We warmed up on some v1s in our approach shoes then headed towards Super Mario. Bobby gave me the top notch tour. There are some nice lines out there. I will be headed back soon.
On Monday we checked out Dayton. It is a newish area in the chatty area. The Dayton roof if probably the most popular area there but there are several satellite boulders all over. With many boulders yet to be established. We walked down and played on a few slabby boulders and did the v2 moves of a v9 by the water. After we walked up to the roof and were blown away by the great problems that it has to offer. We climbed a v2 to the far left of the cave and found a sick v4/5 to play on the rest of the day. We climbed the entire problem but we were unable to top it out. I really wanted it, but now I have a reason to go back.
The next two days it was horrible weather and we only climbed at Urban Rocks. Which is a great gym. I am very excited to head back up to chatty. But I think my next trip out will be to hit up T-Wall.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Triple Crown Plans
















So it looks like Bobby and I will be leaving bright and early Friday morning. We will secure a few campsites for the crew coming up and get the party started. Bobby is just starting to feel better after hurting his plantar fascia in a rough fall a few weeks back, so I'm not sure how much climbing he will be doing. But we are planning to stay at HP through Sunday then head north to Chattanooga. Not exactly sure where we will be going but looks like T-Wall, Stone Fort, Fosters, Rock Town are all options. Not all of these places are in Chatty proper but we have time to drive. I really want to climb at T-Wall myself, but we will see what peps want to do.
I am super pumped about the triple crown. I love the scene there. HP has some of the best bouldering I have been on in my life. The high concentration of boulders is wonderful. I am very excited to send some of my projects this weekend. I will train everyday through Thursday mainly power endurance to get my body used to climbing at my limit all day on Saturday. I have been training for this lately but I can see that I need a final push. We will see.
Also we are going to meet one of my other buddies up there in Alabama, Mike. He will be up there crushing it anyway so we should have a crush fest. Anyway, I will write soon. I want to bring my laptop on the trip to send photos but I'm not sure I want to take that much time away from climbing.

Go Climb Something!!!!!
The pictures are from last season at Hp. Enjoy!!!!










Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Stuff

Well I found out today that I am officially an EMT. I am very excited. I will start looking for a job. I want to start volunteering with NOLA but we will see. I will work for any service. All that matters is getting the experience. I am also looking farther into AMGA guide programs. I will probably take a single pitch guide class in a month or so. There are classes offered in North Carolina that would be convenient.

Star and I are going to Thailand in January. So we have been trying to push ourselves to improve faster. I have been taking weekly trips to HP to get ready for the Triple Crown. The TC is Nov 7th. I should be climbing now. Actually let me go. I need to do a core work out.

Go climb something!!!
Thursday, October 22, 2009

Horse Pens 40 Success













































A buddy and I ran up to HP for a quick trip this past Tuesday and Wednesday. Calling it a very successful trip is an understatement. We arrived late on Tuesday night to 50F temps with clear skies. I was very excited to show Matt around that night, and to grab a beer in the rock gardens.

The next morning we woke up to perfect weather. Blue skies and an orange sun peeking through the trees. My goal on this trip was to climb all new problems non easier than v3. Well I warmed up on a v2, but classic, the Stranger. Great problem and fun top out. Matt had never climbed outside before but has climbed for a year or so and warmed up on the v0 next to it. Next we climbed on the front slabs boulder right behind the Ghetto Superstar boulder. I worked Bombedil v3 and Matt worked Snibe v1. I couldn't unlock the beta so I moved to Snibe and a ver. of Snibe that only uses the crimps on the face to the top v1.
Next was a couple of problems that I touched last season but never was able to pull it off. Fun Dip v4 and Easy Rider v3. I was able to send them both. Both High balls and fun to the top. We stayed in the Mortal Combat area and I sent Swirls v4. This is one of my favorite problems at HP. I love the moves and the tough top out, which is a HP staple. At the swirls we met a guy who was visiting from Japan. He would turn out to be a great guy that climbed with us the rest of the day. He owns a gearshop and climbing gym in Tokyo. And a cool thing about him is that he has been climbing for 36 years!!!!!! Since he was 11.

After Swirls we felt that Jake, the Japanese guy, needed to check out Bumboy, Centerpede and Millipede. He ran up Bumboy and Centerpede onsight. Millipede gave him trouble but he will be there a week. I finally ran up Bumboy v4 and Dope v2. I have wanted to climb Genesis v3 for a long time and I finally tried it and sent!!!! Great problem.

We moved to the roadside area and I was finally able to send Red Arrow tough v4. It is a must climb v4. Next to RA is Man with a Slow Hand v4 and Spook Eye v3. SE is only v3 because of the start, the rest is veasy and vfun. It moves through some very fun, deep pockets.

The rest of the day I played on a few more problems that I am going to have to work on the beta. All in all I climbed 11 new problems at or near my ability. I am very happy with these results. I can not wait to go back and remove another 11 new problems to my tick list.

If you are a climber and you have never climber at HP you are missing out. Go To HP.
Thursday, October 15, 2009

HP40 is GRRRRRREAT!!!!!































I arrived in New Orleans from Washington DC at 920pm on Monday night and met up with my buddy Blake and we drove straight to HP. We planned to climb at HP for two days pending weather. It turned out that the weather was not good, at all. The first day the weather was very dame and overcast. No sun at all. Blake had never climbed outside before and I was very ready to climb on some sloppers. My buddy Mike met us and we set out for some fun. Most of the problems were wet, but we were able to find some classics to play on. We warmed up on the Wasp V3. Very fun. Blake made it to the crux move, we were very impressed. We walked over to Uni-ball and started to look at it and noticed that the start undercling is very loose. Uber scary!!!! Look out for this!!!

Mike had to roll but Blake and I played around for a while and had fun. We met a rep from Trango who climbed with us for the rest of the day.
On Wed we went to Little River Canyon to climb with Mike. It was pouring down. We were only able to clime one route at the Grey wall and then we drove and walked around until we found the Lizard Wall. Very impressed with this sector. There is a ton to keep me busy for a while there. Mike pushed it up a great line that I was not about to pull through the crux. I will send it next week!!! It is only 11c. I should have made it on the insight, but I did not. Ill get the redpoint.

I am hoping to return with another buddy next week but we will see if work will allow. Check out these great shots.