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Thursday, October 22, 2009

Horse Pens 40 Success













































A buddy and I ran up to HP for a quick trip this past Tuesday and Wednesday. Calling it a very successful trip is an understatement. We arrived late on Tuesday night to 50F temps with clear skies. I was very excited to show Matt around that night, and to grab a beer in the rock gardens.

The next morning we woke up to perfect weather. Blue skies and an orange sun peeking through the trees. My goal on this trip was to climb all new problems non easier than v3. Well I warmed up on a v2, but classic, the Stranger. Great problem and fun top out. Matt had never climbed outside before but has climbed for a year or so and warmed up on the v0 next to it. Next we climbed on the front slabs boulder right behind the Ghetto Superstar boulder. I worked Bombedil v3 and Matt worked Snibe v1. I couldn't unlock the beta so I moved to Snibe and a ver. of Snibe that only uses the crimps on the face to the top v1.
Next was a couple of problems that I touched last season but never was able to pull it off. Fun Dip v4 and Easy Rider v3. I was able to send them both. Both High balls and fun to the top. We stayed in the Mortal Combat area and I sent Swirls v4. This is one of my favorite problems at HP. I love the moves and the tough top out, which is a HP staple. At the swirls we met a guy who was visiting from Japan. He would turn out to be a great guy that climbed with us the rest of the day. He owns a gearshop and climbing gym in Tokyo. And a cool thing about him is that he has been climbing for 36 years!!!!!! Since he was 11.

After Swirls we felt that Jake, the Japanese guy, needed to check out Bumboy, Centerpede and Millipede. He ran up Bumboy and Centerpede onsight. Millipede gave him trouble but he will be there a week. I finally ran up Bumboy v4 and Dope v2. I have wanted to climb Genesis v3 for a long time and I finally tried it and sent!!!! Great problem.

We moved to the roadside area and I was finally able to send Red Arrow tough v4. It is a must climb v4. Next to RA is Man with a Slow Hand v4 and Spook Eye v3. SE is only v3 because of the start, the rest is veasy and vfun. It moves through some very fun, deep pockets.

The rest of the day I played on a few more problems that I am going to have to work on the beta. All in all I climbed 11 new problems at or near my ability. I am very happy with these results. I can not wait to go back and remove another 11 new problems to my tick list.

If you are a climber and you have never climber at HP you are missing out. Go To HP.

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