I was feeling good and decided to go for the redpoint. Somethings Always Wrong 10d, is a great line. It starts out as a 5.9 then turns into a 10 at the lip of a roof. The following three bolts are 10b with a two move sequence at the top that are definitely 10d. I was super pumped but very happy I sent. Video will be up soon of the send. We took a quick dip in the falls and headed to Lupi's for some much needed pizza and beer. We stayed at Raccoon Mt. camp ground that night because of its close proximity to Chattanooga.
The routes are stiff and require a stick clip or highball confidence. We climbed an 11a, 11b, 11c/d, and a 12c. I should not say we climbed a 12c, Alex climbed a 12c. 
I made it through the first boulder problem in the roof then fell. There was still two more very tough sequences. Very pumpy. 
But an excellent route for a 12c climber.
Il Castello in Jerzu
In this area there are three easy 5s that go to the same chains. We each took a turn leading them. After these three we were ready for the fun stuff. 
We walked a little farther down and climbed a 6b, Mortadella. 
This climb was tough down low, then moved into a crimpy face. I would say that it is more of a 6b+. Walking still farther down the crag we came across a dihedral that has five 6b to 6b+s. 
We climbed two of them, L'ultimo Train 6b+ and Paradisi Musulmani 6b. Paradisi is the route in the dihedral. That climbs a crack that can take gear. I left the trad gear at the flat to save weight. I wish that I would have remembered to bring t along.
It was a fun climb. A little sandy in the middle but fun. To the left of Paradisi is L'ultimo. It follows Paradisi to the second bolt, then leads left onto the face and to the arete. A great climb. Very delicate on top.
It was hot. I was very tired after these climbs due to the heat. We rested and ate a sandwich. We walked a little farther down the wall to check out more of what El Castello had to offer. I saw this killer face route that ran next to an arete. Fix is rated 6a, so I though I would give it a go. The rock was so bad due to the heat. It was very hot. The route was fun but the crux was tough. There was a sequence of shallow pockets that ran for five moves over a bolt to a nice hold. I did not realize that there was a slopping jug up top to clip from. I was trying to clip the bolt from the shallow pockets. I fell two times. And was pumped when I touched the ground. Star sat at the crux once but, had no problem with the moves. She is a uber strong climber. Not to mention she was able to put two fingers into those pockets. We finished our day on Easy 5c. The name says it all. It was very short, easy. Dirty in the middle. Not many people must climb that route.
Photo from adventurefilm.org 
Photo from patagonia.com
After a nice rest from the previous day of climbing, Star and I decided to take a rest day. Stars idea of a rest day would turn out to be far different than mine. We headed for Cala Gonone. Cala Gonone is a two and a half hour drive north of where we were staying in Arbatax.
There is no road that goes along the coast directly to CG. The road to Cala Gonone is very dangerous to drive on. The road is a very winding mountain road. This is not why the drive is dangerous. By this point I was starting to get used to the Indy car drivers from Italy, this added danger, but there was still something more dangerous on the way. Rocks!!! Not falling rocks, but actually, very stable rocks. 
I was having a very hard time keeping my eyes in the road. We had to pull over repeatedly so I could check out the vast unclimbed rock. I was over whelmed.
We were driving on the winding road and finally came to a tunnel. Once we passed through the tunnel we were at the top of a cliff band that over looked CG. The view from this point was beautiful. Once we made our way into the village we located a restaurant that was not closed. Just to let everyone know, almost all of the restaurants in Italy close from 12pm to 4pm or 5pm. So it took some looking to find a place to eat is all I am saying.
So, Stars idea of a rest day was to go and hangout at the beach. No problem. That can be fun. I like the beach. I am ADD but I can hang on the beach and chill. But this was not your ordinary beach. This was a beach at Cala Gonone. The most developed area in all of Sardinia. I was to say the least, anxious to explore the nearby crags. After an hour or so of walking and laying out on the beach I was past ready to do something else that I started to talk to the seagulls that were flying over head. I know what your thinking, this is silly, everyone knows you can't talk to seagulls in Italy. They don't understand English.
Star saw that I was ready to head out and she reluctantly started to pack up. We headed back to the car. I did not intent on climbing. I just wanted to see the crags in the area. Just check them out. But once we arrived to the climbing area that was located right on the water, I started to feel the urge to climb. It was a rest day, so we could climb just two or three routes and still rest. Moderate routes. We descended into the small cala. This area is called Fuili. 
Access to this area is very easy. Too easy. There were many tourist that were walking down to the beach below the crag and hanging out. Which is great, but they would use the bushes around the crag to urinate and defecate. The sector that we choose was Corvo Rosso, for it's close proximity to the water. The first climb that we did was an easy arete named Spigolo Fuili 5a. 
Star lead it first then I led it next. We walked around the corner to find a row of moderates. We located them and to our surprise the locale outhouse too. We climbed a no named climb that went at 5a. Very easy. But we could not stand the smell and had to leave.
On our way out I walked by a really cool line that was only 20m but looked well chalked and fun. Desiderio 6a, was my favorite climb in our short visit to Fuili. There are two cruxes on this climb, one down low and the other one move before the anchor. The bottom is very bouldery and the top is delicate. I loved the entire route. Star enjoyed Desiderio also. She fell on the bottom crux, but lowered and sent it. Star is a very strong climber. I am very lucky to be her life and climbing partner
We packed up and hiked out and made it back to the car in 10 minutes. The drive home that night seemed a lot faster than before. It must have been because it was dark, and I could not see any rocks. The moon was low in the sky and red on the way home. It was a beautiful sight. We arrived late and went stright to bed. The next day would be our last full day in Sardinia and our last day to climb.
