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Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Europe 2

The Beautiful Arco Castle.



Who said that traveling in Europe is easy? It is convenient, but not easy if you are not used to the form of transportation in Europe.


Star and I were headed to Arco Italy for two days of climbing. Well, that two days turned to one very fast. After a very complicated change of train to bus we make it to within 30 km of our B&B. We were in Arco but our flat was in A village over a pass. We were headed there on our second bus of the day, and decided to hop off and cancel the B&B and find a hotel in town. We jumped off right in front of a hotel that looked very fancy. We were tired of traveling and decided to check it out. We walked in and asked if they had a room. They did. Great!! Now how much? It was only 70 euros a night. And that included breakfast. We were floored. This was great. The room was sweet. We set up our room and headed to a bike shop to rent a bike thru the next day. We ended up with some great rode bikes. It is a law in most of Europe that your bike have lights on them and a horn.
We went into town and had a bit to eat. I did not realize that there were five climbing shops in town. I was in heaven, or so I thought. It was great to have the complete access to all of the gear that I could ever want. And all of the brands that are not available in the US. I would find out the next day that this was a blessing and a curse. The next morning we headed to one of the most classic areas of Arco, Massone. Massone is a great climbing area. It is easy to access, has a wide range of climbing grades, and is beautiful aesthetically.
The View from Massone.
We rode our bikes about twenty minutes from our hotel to the crag. There is even an outhouse at the base of the crag. That should have been a clear indicator. We hiked the two minute approach and noticed that there was about twenty climbers in sector A alone. We were able climb a couple of routes to warm up. We started on a 5a, Zac, an easy slab on pockets climb.
Star on the first climb of the day.
Next we climbed a 5c, that was sloppery in the beginning and over hung up top. Both were very fun climbs. After Star's feet hit the ground after the second route there were 40 people in sector A. It was time to head to sector B and C.

View of sector B.

All the rest of the climbs that we climbed in Massone were completely polished. The routes were great routes but not fun because of how polished they were. This was the curse of Arco. There is so much rock close by and the access is very easy. It is a uber popular area. The rock is so polished the climbs are almost entirely marble. The grades are two harder because of it.

In sector B we started on a 5b, Impetrife's, then Over Booking, a 6a. Over Booking was my favorite climb of the day. OB was a jug fest up a light over hang. We finished the day moving from each route thru a sea of climbers. Easily 60 to 70 people. Our last climb was Stattento, a 6a. Way to hard for 6a because of the marble.

We left Massone and headed for a bite to eat and to pack for our next move to Sardinia. This is the most anticipated part of the trip for me. I am so happy to be marring Star, the love of my life.

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