Pages

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Japan Bouldering

Jack showing me some sweet lines



Tough shallow pocket roof




The first long move from the match







Left gaston , about to move into the right, V5




Jack on a Fun v4 with a v6 alternate start



I met up with Jack and we headed to one of his secret bouldering areas for some stone pulling. We arrived in the morning to great temps. Jack showed me many, many wonderful problems. Several of the boulders were still wet but that would change as the sun came out and dried the boulders. Until then we climbed very steep lines through sloper arete and pockets. Totally rad.

We worked a steep arete face looking for the FA. The top was still wet. It will probably go at v5. Jack showed me a stellar 12 ft roof that moves through three pockets with a dyno at the end v5 or 6. Yet again we top out. We used a ton of chalk to try and dry the top but it only dried as the sun came through the trees.

We climbed a cool v2 with a dry sloper finsh. Next to the v2 is a very cool v5 that includes pockets, two gaston moves, and a sloper finish with good feet. We climbed a couple more problems after including a cool v4 with a killer heal hook dead point to the summit. On the walk back to the car we walked past a dozen more boulders with 1 to 3 problems on them. This area has so much potential!!

After the climb we drove to a cool hot springs. I had never been to a Japanese hot springs. The relaxation of the springs after a great session is wonderful. Today I am going to try and go check out Yugi Hirayama's gym. I really need to train.

So long from the land of the raising sun and remember.....



Go Climb Something!!!!!!!

0 comments:

Post a Comment

Post a Comment