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Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Europe 5




After a nice rest from the previous day of climbing, Star and I decided to take a rest day. Stars idea of a rest day would turn out to be far different than mine. We headed for Cala Gonone. Cala Gonone is a two and a half hour drive north of where we were staying in Arbatax.

There is no road that goes along the coast directly to CG. The road to Cala Gonone is very dangerous to drive on. The road is a very winding mountain road. This is not why the drive is dangerous. By this point I was starting to get used to the Indy car drivers from Italy, this added danger, but there was still something more dangerous on the way. Rocks!!! Not falling rocks, but actually, very stable rocks.

I was having a very hard time keeping my eyes in the road. We had to pull over repeatedly so I could check out the vast unclimbed rock. I was over whelmed.

We were driving on the winding road and finally came to a tunnel. Once we passed through the tunnel we were at the top of a cliff band that over looked CG. The view from this point was beautiful. Once we made our way into the village we located a restaurant that was not closed. Just to let everyone know, almost all of the restaurants in Italy close from 12pm to 4pm or 5pm. So it took some looking to find a place to eat is all I am saying.

So, Stars idea of a rest day was to go and hangout at the beach. No problem. That can be fun. I like the beach. I am ADD but I can hang on the beach and chill. But this was not your ordinary beach. This was a beach at Cala Gonone. The most developed area in all of Sardinia. I was to say the least, anxious to explore the nearby crags. After an hour or so of walking and laying out on the beach I was past ready to do something else that I started to talk to the seagulls that were flying over head. I know what your thinking, this is silly, everyone knows you can't talk to seagulls in Italy. They don't understand English.

Star saw that I was ready to head out and she reluctantly started to pack up. We headed back to the car. I did not intent on climbing. I just wanted to see the crags in the area. Just check them out. But once we arrived to the climbing area that was located right on the water, I started to feel the urge to climb. It was a rest day, so we could climb just two or three routes and still rest. Moderate routes. We descended into the small cala. This area is called Fuili.

Access to this area is very easy. Too easy. There were many tourist that were walking down to the beach below the crag and hanging out. Which is great, but they would use the bushes around the crag to urinate and defecate. The sector that we choose was Corvo Rosso, for it's close proximity to the water. The first climb that we did was an easy arete named Spigolo Fuili 5a.

Star lead it first then I led it next. We walked around the corner to find a row of moderates. We located them and to our surprise the locale outhouse too. We climbed a no named climb that went at 5a. Very easy. But we could not stand the smell and had to leave.

On our way out I walked by a really cool line that was only 20m but looked well chalked and fun. Desiderio 6a, was my favorite climb in our short visit to Fuili. There are two cruxes on this climb, one down low and the other one move before the anchor. The bottom is very bouldery and the top is delicate. I loved the entire route. Star enjoyed Desiderio also. She fell on the bottom crux, but lowered and sent it. Star is a very strong climber. I am very lucky to be her life and climbing partner




We packed up and hiked out and made it back to the car in 10 minutes. The drive home that night seemed a lot faster than before. It must have been because it was dark, and I could not see any rocks. The moon was low in the sky and red on the way home. It was a beautiful sight. We arrived late and went stright to bed. The next day would be our last full day in Sardinia and our last day to climb.

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