Friday, July 17, 2009
Star and I decided to head out on our trip a bit earlier than we originally planned. We left after Alex and Gracie's wedding, which was wonderful, at c 11pm on the 10th. We only were able to stay awake until 2:30 before we had to crash on the side of the road. We woke at 430 and decided to hit it. Star drove, she is such a trooper. We drove straight through, all the way to Denver. We arrived at 1am on the morning of the 13th. Texas is long!!!! 
We met up, had a bit to eat and headed to climb at the Hobak Shield. The Shield is a sport area about 20 minutes south of town. Which everyone complains about being sooooooo far away. Yea right. I wish I had a crag 4 hours away, let alone 20 minutes. This was actually the first time Chris and I climbed routes outside together. We had been bouldering, but never routes. He is very Strong. We climbed four routes in the 5.9-10d range and had a blast. We drove into town had a bite to eat and headed to camp, for free, at Sheep Mt. Which is directly across from the Tetons in a Aspen grove. And the bison are abundant.
We met up with some friends and decided to head to Upper Dream Canyon, in the Boulder area, the next day. We arrived at the UDC trail head just in time to see the thunder clouds gathering. We decided to head back to town and have a bit to eat at the Boulder Cafe, which has an interesting selection of foods, most of which are Creole in nature. We drove back to the canyon after the rain stopped. We spent some time trying to find the right climbing sector unsuccessfully. We happened upon some routes to looked moderate so I decided to rope up and figure out what they were about. The first route seemed 5.7 and the second looked harder. The harder route went up this brilliant overhanging arete. It looked like the entire route was bolted, I was wrong. The crux was protected by gear. I of course did not figure this out until I was in the crux sequence and tried to run it out to the anchors. I fell just above my last bolt, not felling so confident considering I had no idea what the grade was. I lowered and grabbed some C3s. There was excellent placement and I sent on the next go. I figured based on the moves that the route would go at about 10b/c. Star thought it was more like 10a. Star climbed both routes and our friend Shannon climbed the first route because we did not have much time. It was a wonderful day. UDC is beautiful and a must see in the summer. But beware, it is hard to find certain sectors first try. When we made it home after dinner I confirmed that the first route was Werner's Legacy 5.8, and the second was Rock Doc 10b/c.
The next day we geared up early and headed to Eldorado Canyon the climb The Bastille Crack on the Bastille on Bastille Day. 
The BC is one of the most popular route in the states and I figured that a ton of folks would be on it especially because it was Bastille day. We headed up it and had an absolute blast. It can be done in 3 pitches but we did it in the original 5 pitches for Bastille Day. 
After, we met up with our friends and I set up a top rope on Northcutt Start 10d, March of Dimes 10b/c, 
and the first pitch of the BC all of which are trad routes. All are super fun. It was wonderful weather which always makes for a great climbing day. And FYI the BC is in the shade all day.
The BC is one of the most popular route in the states and I figured that a ton of folks would be on it especially because it was Bastille day. We headed up it and had an absolute blast. It can be done in 3 pitches but we did it in the original 5 pitches for Bastille Day. After, we met up with our friends and I set up a top rope on Northcutt Start 10d, March of Dimes 10b/c, and the first pitch of the BC all of which are trad routes. All are super fun. It was wonderful weather which always makes for a great climbing day. And FYI the BC is in the shade all day.Star flew back home that night and I drove the next day to Lander.
On the way I of course stopped at the New Belgium headquarters and toured around their facility.
In Lander I stayed in the Sinks Canyon and left early to meet up with Chris and Lori in Jackson. The drive to Jackson is indescribable with words. Just look at the following photos.
We met up, had a bit to eat and headed to climb at the Hobak Shield. The Shield is a sport area about 20 minutes south of town. Which everyone complains about being sooooooo far away. Yea right. I wish I had a crag 4 hours away, let alone 20 minutes. This was actually the first time Chris and I climbed routes outside together. We had been bouldering, but never routes. He is very Strong. We climbed four routes in the 5.9-10d range and had a blast. We drove into town had a bite to eat and headed to camp, for free, at Sheep Mt. Which is directly across from the Tetons in a Aspen grove. And the bison are abundant.Today we are headed to Climb even farther south of Jackson at another sport area, The Rodeo Wall. Stay tuned for more beautiful photos.
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