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Thursday, July 23, 2009

Exploring the Great Outdoors and OR



I have just returned to Jackson from Salt Lake City. Before I left Chris and I went back to the Rodeo Wall for a rest day. We went up three routes each and had some fun in the shade. The next day we went to a new area, Blacktail Butte. Or as Chris calls it, The Blackflail.

First off the routes here really start in the 11b range and are all stiff. We climbed three routes and Chris sent a 12b clean. Strong Work!!! That afternoon I travelled down to SLC to check out the Outdoor Retailer Show.
I met up with a friend and designer, Patti. She is great. She is super talented. If you need a bag designed call her. Anyway, I ended up staying at a hostel that was only a few blocks from the convention center. And a side note, if you are ever in SLC bring your own beer. All of the beer in the city is 3.2%. I brought some New Belgium so I was good, but just wanted to let you know. If you do want to enjoy a good beer you are going to have to "join" a club. Or become a member of a private bar and pay a small fee at the door. It is easier to just bring your own beer.

There was a guy at the hostel that over heard Patti and I talking about where we were going to climb the next day. He would end up joining us the next day. This is a big reason I love travelling, to meet new people. We woke up at 6am to head to Big Cottonwood Canyon. The area that we picked out was in the shade in the am and very easy to access. Patti had a meeting at 10am so we had to make it a quick trip. We parked and found the wall, which is right next to the road. You have to hop across a small creek to reach Dogwood crag. As we walked up we noticed that there was about 30 military guys in fatigues. As it turned out they were doing a rappel and aid climbing clinic. We were pushed to the very end of the wall were there was only three routes. A 5.8, 5.6 and 5.9. I was a little disappointed. But then I realized that I was outside climbing. I got pumped up again and roped up. The rock in this area is quartzite. Which was new to me. I jumped on the 5.8 and noticed right away what Stewart Green was talking about when he wrote that the rock was smooth. It is not that is is polished it is naturally very smooth. Patti and John ran up the 5.8, Haven't a Clue, and I set up, I Think I'm Going Bald, 5.9. The route pulls a small roof and moves to its crux on small holds and smears. Fun route. We packed up after everyone climbed the route and just as Patti was crossing the creek a flash flood broke out. It came out of nowhere. Patti started at ankle deep water then in a second it was at her knee. She came back before it swept her away. The military guy's bags started to float away so I started to collect them and move them to higher ground as they looked on in aw. It is funny how people react in an "Emergency". These men are trained for combat and a flash flood comes and no one knows what to do. They were appreciative and we headed out.

At the OR show I met a ton of great folks. I ran into Lynn Hill, John Sherman, Joe Kinder, Cedar Wright and Paul Robinson. I have met Christian Griffth before but we chatted a bit about the market and how Verve was doing. I went to check in with Mountain Khakis and had my butt photoed. I was overwhelmed at all of the people and product at the show. Everyone was there.
First I walked through the climbing section and saw the new Cassin edition gear from CAMP,rad!!!! I talked to the guys at Evolve, 5.10 and Sterling a bit and felt really at home in the climbing gear world. I love GEAR!!!!!

After a day of walking around and looking at gear I was pooped. I caught a keg party at the Primaloft booth. And went to the Mountain Khakis keg party, killer. Then walked over to the climbers memorial in the climbing area. It was a great video and gathering.

Next was the climbing comp on the roof of a parking garage. The whole event was awesome. It was my first pro comp and it was done in style. The wall was sweet. All overhung and with the final problem on an eye. Very cool.

The women went first and started out the show in style.

Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson put on a great show.



Alex Johnson would end up winning. The men had a few surprises. It took until the fourth person to send problem one. It was Jimmy Wood from Chattanooga.


Then a surprising finish standings with Daniel Woods first and a new young guy named Julian. It was a great show.

The next day I went bouldering because I was solo. I went to the Ogden boulder field. It was on the way out of town and I really wanted a pump.
I would send four problems and attempt two more. Quartzite is nice and very featured. I drove back to Jackson and met up with John at the free camping site.
Today I am planning on bouldering with Lori and meeting up with Chris later to talked about going up the Grand this weekend. Stay tuned for photos from the Grand and a new development on climbing for four days in the Winds early next week. Here I come Tetons!!!

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