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Sunday, September 12, 2010

This Week Climbing in Japan

Ando on the start of Ninja Gaeshi





New problem in the woods








Start of a great day


The rest of this week was very nice. I was able to make and complete a task list comprised of things to do around the house. Very successful. Not to mention the development of two new boulders at the secret area and I finally sent Ninja Gaeshi v5/6.
This Saturday Star and I went car camping in the mountains. Which was splendid. We had a very lovely night in the back of the car. Due to the prego belly I hooked Star up with two layers of sleeping pads and three blankets to sleep on. She was very comfortable. It was nice. The next day we went searching for new boulders to climb. We found two very nice boulders that really cried to be climbed. One is a low arete that moves to a sloper top out. We cleaned it and worked it. Fells like v5. Then we walked a bit more and found an amazing boat shaped arete that is just begging to be sent. We cleaned the bottom and top but I will need to go back with a rope and clean the middle. At 25 feet on a steep slope, some mental prep will be needed for the sloper top out. Bottom feels like v4/5.
The next day we went to Mitake with some friends. Star decided half way up at 8ft boulder that it was time to give up climbing until after the baby has taken his first breath of air. But I finally sent Ninja Gaeshi v5/6. After four sessions and lots of lost skin, it went down. Jensen, a buddy from base, has started to climb again. It is really cool to find more friends that are climbers.
We spent the next few hours standing in line to climb problems at all levels. Jensen made it to the top of a v3. This does not sound like a big deal but Jensen has not climbed in at least a year, so we are very pumped at his success. It was really cool. All in all, a great week.
On Tuesday it's back to Mizugaki and Wednesday brings another trip to Mitake to check out the Pinch overhang boulder and it's surrounding boulders.
Go Climb Something!!!!

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