Last week was good but wet. On Tuesday Jack and I went to a secret climbing area where we both had projects. We both sent them. And we bolted a new line!! Jack's line is a very bouldery line that goes at 12b/c named Dixie King. A classic line that people will love at the grade once the area is opened. Mine line is the one that I talked about before. I finally was able to nail the last v4 crux move. There being no resting/chalking point I named the line No Rest Required 12a. We were both very happy with our results. And the new line looks line a 12-, so many great lines are being added all of the time. We are heading back there tomorrow to work the new line and another 12a that I have not climbed yet. Good things.

Also I have a new project at Mitake. Miney No Yu V5/6. This is a very new line at Mitake that Jack put up. Really nice clean face on the tallest boulder at Mitake. On my first attempt I made it to the larger holds in the middle where I thought the crux would be over. Well the top was wet from three days of rain. I toed down with a high right foot and realized I should wait for cooler conditions for this send. Some folks say V6, Jack says v5. I say easy for v6 but very heady v5.
Pinch Over Hang is also a really cool boulder. Tough for v6. I tried a few times making it to the hold but, not far enough to hold on to it. Next time, maybe.

On a totally random note I read that Nalle was headed to Lincoln Lake. This is very exciting. There are some Very strong climbers there putting up some amazing lines. LL seems to be the new hot spot in the states. Sweet to see Nalle make the trip. I am stoked to see the results.

Anyway, keep it real and sorry for the lack of photos. I am putting together a short HD movie now. I am very close to finishing but I want to shoot a few more problems before I finish.


Go Climb Something!!!