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Friday, July 23, 2010

The Grand Wall

Getting Seasoned in the Sun

Or Seasoned in the Shade


Star on the crack




At the best of Rutabaga and Arrowroot






Yesterday we had a great day on the right side of the Grand Wall. We climbed a classic finger crack, Seasoned in the Sun. What a great crack. ratty and marginal at the bottom and killer at the top. On the walk back we found this very obscure bolted face line that was new and not listed in the guide. For some reason it inspired me. Now I must explain that I am from the southeast and I am a fan of the steep faces. Honestly the more over hung the better. So being inspired by slab is a big deal for me. Very fun moves tough at the top and you place a #3 under a roof before the anchors. I give it a star. I'd give it two but the flake ledge is above it which leaves all of the holds dirty after rain. I sent on the second go. I'm not sure about the grade, maybe 10d everywhere or 10a Squamish. It's not that the routes are hard for the grade, but the technique and style of climbing here is different than I am used to. Very fun though.
After we walked down the wall looking toward the Bullestheads for inspiration. We wound up realizing it was 7pm and decided to grab some dinner. Great day.
Today it's the Apron. Looking at Over the Rainbow, Didier, or One Scoop with Delicious Dimples. Stay tuned for photos from today's events!!!!

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