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Monday, April 20, 2009

Red-Diculous



My fiancee tried to surprise me with a trip to the Red River Gorge for my 27th birthday. She was planning the trip with ten of our closest friends. Well due to changes at work I found out. I was stoked!!! I have been trying to make it to the Red for some time now. We wound up going to the southwest instead, oh poor us. This trip to the Red would turn out to be one of the best trips we have been on thus far.

We left work on Friday and planned to stay in Nashville for the night. we were traveling with our good friends Alex and Gracie, who were engaged the week before. The next morning we headed to Lexington to find a Grocery and booze. Star found an amazing locale organic market. We gathered food for the next four days and made our way to the Liquor Barn. I am from New Orleans, so I would say that I know a thing or two about alcohol. But this place was the largest display of booze I have ever seen. One of these locations in NO open only during Mardi Gras would double the location in Lexington by two fold, easy. Alex and I loaded up and we started the final stretch to the Red.

We finally made it to the cabin that Star rented. It was fabulous!! It was a two story cabin. With a full kitchen, hot tube, and with two and a half bath. It was perfect for 12 people. The hot tube and fire place were great for after the crag. We dropped our stuff off and headed to meet up with everyone at the Left Flank, a sector of the Gray's Branch area. The LF has sun all day and in ok to climb in the rain, or just right afterward. The hike was still sloppy after the rain in the morning. Please do not use flip flops on the hike.

The gang was already climbing when we arrived. Our friend John who lives in Detroit with his wife and son. He made it down to help us decipher the good from the ugly. We thru our harnesses on and I ran up Face up to that Crack, 5.8 mixed.
Star followed with ease. There was an interesting line to the left named Fast Food Christians, 10a. Very fun route. The crux was to the first bolt ten feet off the ground. Then finished on 5.7.

I noticed to the far right of the sector there was a rather impressive line. I figured that it was out of my capabilities and wanted to try it. I talked with Alex and found out that it was To Defy the Laws of Tradition, 10a. Way in my range. But it was overhanging, so i should not underestimate it. It was a fight up top.

The climb is 60 feet, which is the only thing wrong with it. To Defy starts out on some touchy moves down low, then moves to a slopping ledge.
The remainder of the route is slightly over hung to the anchors. The pockets on the route where a new feature to me. I made it thru and when I hit the dirt Alex told me that he thought I was going to give up at the top. This was for sure the most fun climb of the day for me. I loved the moves. Star enjoyed the climb as well and I think that she would agree with me.

Alex and I moved to Aquaduck Pocket, 11b. This climb was very beta intensive but each more was not very hard. The hardest part was finding the right pockets to use. Some would be pad deep, some were knuckle deep. We finished on Mr. Bugle 5.8 arete and Brother Stair 5.9. BS was in the shade in the afternoon and was wet.
Our first day in the Red was great. We left and could not wait for the next day.
Go Climb Something!!!

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