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Sunday, September 27, 2009

The Shanty Cliffs








































What a day. It started with a great breakfast at the BnB and then we headed to the Shanty Cliffs in the Dacks. We did have to hike through a shallow river but it was great!!! We wanted Star to run up her first trad lines on lead and to check out some new rock, anorthosite. Anorthosite is very interesting. It reminded me of granite without the bite. Very sticky. And not to mention that we were the only ones there.

Well, Star climbed her first trad line no problem she followed it with a great run out lead on a 5.9 sport route. I climbed a few lines and just enjoyed the beautiful weather. The trees here are just starting to change and it is beautiful. Well the last line of the day was a great 10a over a few bulgy roofs and up a vertical crack. This was the line of the day. Super fun!!! Three bolts at the bottom and trad the rest. Star loved this route.

On the hike out I stepped on a loose rock and lacerated my leg. It hurt like the dickens. We worked together and made a pressure bandage out of my favorite HP40 shirt. It was starting to get dark and we were worried about bears. We made noise but of course we were moving very slow at this point. Steep terrain and one good leg do not mix well. We made it back to the car and eventually to the hospital. After a 4.5 hour visit I have 5 sutures and I have seen my tibia. Which is whiter that I thought it was.

The next day I was very bummed and was very interested to see it I could push myself to climb. Well on Saturday after a rest day on Friday Star and I decided to head to Pok-o-Moonshine and see. Star lead her second trad line and rocked it. I felt good so I lead it next with not problem and decided to push it a little bit more. We found a slabby line with two large bulges in it. I was going to lead this puppy. I made it to the first bulge with no problem. To get over the bulge it is a very awkward move. I placed a solid BD .75. And made my was up and placed a bomber .5 as I was going to clip it I slipped off of the sit pull and fell 12 feet on slab. Ouch!!!! It was not bad. It was exhilarating though. I sent the line next go and the line is stiff for the 5.8+ that it was given in '59.

Today, Sunday, the weather is very poor. Rainy and cold. So we are headed to a climbing gym in Burlington. This town is very hip too. Great area, beautiful sights. Not to mention that we took a ferry across Lake Champlain.

Till next time, be careful out the way out of the woods. Or end up with sutures!!!!!

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