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Saturday, November 14, 2009

HP Triple Crown Week

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 5:49 PM / / 0 comments
Dayton Roof

Dayton Roof

The start to the v5 on Dayton roof





Dayton Roof




A fun v2 warm up at the lf of roof




The top out of a v9 by the water




Bobby climbing a v3 at HP





Star on the super classic Stranger v2






This past weekend was the Horse Pens Triple Crown. My buddy Bobby and I drove up to HP on Friday morning. It was wonderful weather. The temps were nice and the sky was blue. I was in the mood to climb. We played around and set up our tents in an area that another buddy Jay saved for our group.
We had an excellent group this year. It was lacking two core member, Alex and Gracie. But it is hard to feel bad for Alex since he is in Italy crushing it in a new trad crag that he is developing 15 mins from his house. We wound up having nine of us for the event. Saturday was great as usual. We played around on some great warm ups and had a slow go at sends. The party that night was super fun. I wound up talking to Dave at So'ill and buying several of his holds. Their holds are sick. Bobby has been using them for years and he loves them.
On Sunday we climbed for a couple of hours the Bobby and I headed to Stone Fort. I had never been there before. It is a very cool place. We warmed up on some v1s in our approach shoes then headed towards Super Mario. Bobby gave me the top notch tour. There are some nice lines out there. I will be headed back soon.
On Monday we checked out Dayton. It is a newish area in the chatty area. The Dayton roof if probably the most popular area there but there are several satellite boulders all over. With many boulders yet to be established. We walked down and played on a few slabby boulders and did the v2 moves of a v9 by the water. After we walked up to the roof and were blown away by the great problems that it has to offer. We climbed a v2 to the far left of the cave and found a sick v4/5 to play on the rest of the day. We climbed the entire problem but we were unable to top it out. I really wanted it, but now I have a reason to go back.
The next two days it was horrible weather and we only climbed at Urban Rocks. Which is a great gym. I am very excited to head back up to chatty. But I think my next trip out will be to hit up T-Wall.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Triple Crown Plans

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 9:19 AM / / 1 comments















So it looks like Bobby and I will be leaving bright and early Friday morning. We will secure a few campsites for the crew coming up and get the party started. Bobby is just starting to feel better after hurting his plantar fascia in a rough fall a few weeks back, so I'm not sure how much climbing he will be doing. But we are planning to stay at HP through Sunday then head north to Chattanooga. Not exactly sure where we will be going but looks like T-Wall, Stone Fort, Fosters, Rock Town are all options. Not all of these places are in Chatty proper but we have time to drive. I really want to climb at T-Wall myself, but we will see what peps want to do.
I am super pumped about the triple crown. I love the scene there. HP has some of the best bouldering I have been on in my life. The high concentration of boulders is wonderful. I am very excited to send some of my projects this weekend. I will train everyday through Thursday mainly power endurance to get my body used to climbing at my limit all day on Saturday. I have been training for this lately but I can see that I need a final push. We will see.
Also we are going to meet one of my other buddies up there in Alabama, Mike. He will be up there crushing it anyway so we should have a crush fest. Anyway, I will write soon. I want to bring my laptop on the trip to send photos but I'm not sure I want to take that much time away from climbing.

Go Climb Something!!!!!
The pictures are from last season at Hp. Enjoy!!!!










Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Stuff

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 6:02 PM / / 0 comments
Well I found out today that I am officially an EMT. I am very excited. I will start looking for a job. I want to start volunteering with NOLA but we will see. I will work for any service. All that matters is getting the experience. I am also looking farther into AMGA guide programs. I will probably take a single pitch guide class in a month or so. There are classes offered in North Carolina that would be convenient.

Star and I are going to Thailand in January. So we have been trying to push ourselves to improve faster. I have been taking weekly trips to HP to get ready for the Triple Crown. The TC is Nov 7th. I should be climbing now. Actually let me go. I need to do a core work out.

Go climb something!!!
Thursday, October 22, 2009

Horse Pens 40 Success

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 8:35 AM / / 0 comments












































A buddy and I ran up to HP for a quick trip this past Tuesday and Wednesday. Calling it a very successful trip is an understatement. We arrived late on Tuesday night to 50F temps with clear skies. I was very excited to show Matt around that night, and to grab a beer in the rock gardens.

The next morning we woke up to perfect weather. Blue skies and an orange sun peeking through the trees. My goal on this trip was to climb all new problems non easier than v3. Well I warmed up on a v2, but classic, the Stranger. Great problem and fun top out. Matt had never climbed outside before but has climbed for a year or so and warmed up on the v0 next to it. Next we climbed on the front slabs boulder right behind the Ghetto Superstar boulder. I worked Bombedil v3 and Matt worked Snibe v1. I couldn't unlock the beta so I moved to Snibe and a ver. of Snibe that only uses the crimps on the face to the top v1.
Next was a couple of problems that I touched last season but never was able to pull it off. Fun Dip v4 and Easy Rider v3. I was able to send them both. Both High balls and fun to the top. We stayed in the Mortal Combat area and I sent Swirls v4. This is one of my favorite problems at HP. I love the moves and the tough top out, which is a HP staple. At the swirls we met a guy who was visiting from Japan. He would turn out to be a great guy that climbed with us the rest of the day. He owns a gearshop and climbing gym in Tokyo. And a cool thing about him is that he has been climbing for 36 years!!!!!! Since he was 11.

After Swirls we felt that Jake, the Japanese guy, needed to check out Bumboy, Centerpede and Millipede. He ran up Bumboy and Centerpede onsight. Millipede gave him trouble but he will be there a week. I finally ran up Bumboy v4 and Dope v2. I have wanted to climb Genesis v3 for a long time and I finally tried it and sent!!!! Great problem.

We moved to the roadside area and I was finally able to send Red Arrow tough v4. It is a must climb v4. Next to RA is Man with a Slow Hand v4 and Spook Eye v3. SE is only v3 because of the start, the rest is veasy and vfun. It moves through some very fun, deep pockets.

The rest of the day I played on a few more problems that I am going to have to work on the beta. All in all I climbed 11 new problems at or near my ability. I am very happy with these results. I can not wait to go back and remove another 11 new problems to my tick list.

If you are a climber and you have never climber at HP you are missing out. Go To HP.
Thursday, October 15, 2009

HP40 is GRRRRRREAT!!!!!

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 11:00 PM / / 0 comments






























I arrived in New Orleans from Washington DC at 920pm on Monday night and met up with my buddy Blake and we drove straight to HP. We planned to climb at HP for two days pending weather. It turned out that the weather was not good, at all. The first day the weather was very dame and overcast. No sun at all. Blake had never climbed outside before and I was very ready to climb on some sloppers. My buddy Mike met us and we set out for some fun. Most of the problems were wet, but we were able to find some classics to play on. We warmed up on the Wasp V3. Very fun. Blake made it to the crux move, we were very impressed. We walked over to Uni-ball and started to look at it and noticed that the start undercling is very loose. Uber scary!!!! Look out for this!!!

Mike had to roll but Blake and I played around for a while and had fun. We met a rep from Trango who climbed with us for the rest of the day.
On Wed we went to Little River Canyon to climb with Mike. It was pouring down. We were only able to clime one route at the Grey wall and then we drove and walked around until we found the Lizard Wall. Very impressed with this sector. There is a ton to keep me busy for a while there. Mike pushed it up a great line that I was not about to pull through the crux. I will send it next week!!! It is only 11c. I should have made it on the insight, but I did not. Ill get the redpoint.

I am hoping to return with another buddy next week but we will see if work will allow. Check out these great shots.

Photos from DC

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 10:45 PM / / 0 comments





















Saturday, October 10, 2009

DC is cool, so far

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 11:03 PM / / 0 comments
Well Star and I are in DC right now to check it out as a potential place to live. So far it is great. Obama gave an amazing speech tonight and we were outside the building. There were so many police it was crazy!!!!
We landed around 1pm and decided to do some sight seeing. We wanted through the Smithsonian mall and ducked in the Natural History Museum. Star has never been to DC before, so the museum was great. All of the animals are so realistic. She was very excited. We decided to grab some dinner at a Ethiopian Restaurant in the Adam's Morgan area of town. That area is VERY hip. Our sort of place. It is within 10 blocks of Georgetown and has every type of ethnic food. There are two Ethiopian restaurants in three blocks. I have never seen one, let alone two.
After dinner we walked around the AM area and were very pleased with the atmosphere. Then we drove downtown and caught the end of the Obama speech. Not in person but right outside the building he was giving it in. It was GREAT!!!! Just another reason to live here. We would be i the middle of everything political. Not to mention 4 hrs from the New River Gorge and 7 to the Red River Gorge.
Tomorrow we are going to a vegetarian restaurant for breakfast and then the Washington monument, Lincoln memorial, Air and Space museum, and the climbing gym. I will not be able to post any photos until I get back from climbing in Alabama on Thursday.

Chat soon.
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