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Friday, September 25, 2009

Photos From the Gunks




























Monday, September 21, 2009

THE GUNKS!!!!!!

Star and I are in New Paltz now having a wonderful time at the Gunks. We have a huge tick list and will probably not make it through half of it before we have to head to the Adirondacks. Too bad for us. On Saturday we arrived to town early enough to check out the town, trail head, and set up the tent in daylight. This is a first for us considering that we always drive straight to climb. We climbed 5 pitches the first day. It was uber busy and we had some trouble finding an open route. We warmed up on Frogs head, then headed over to Limelight. Both are great routes. Limelight being the harder of the two. After we had a much needed snack we walked down to try and climb Classic or Jackie but both had lines. We settled for a 5.8-, Dirty Gerdie, that was harder than any 5.9 I have ever tried in my life.

Today on day two we had plans to climb four routes. We made it up two SUPER classic lines, High Exposure and CCK. High E is by far the best line that I have climbed in a long time. It is in my top five for sure. The exposure on the second pitch is wonderfully exciting!!! CCK on the other hand is was very hard. The route's second pitch had a fare amount of drag and was tough to lead, but I can see how it is so popular.

We took our time on the summits and tried to take in all of the beautiful sights and the peace and quiet. Tomorrow we are going up Madame G, Shockley's Ceiling, and Arrow. That will make 8 pitches. We are really excited!!! Stay tuned for photos in the next post.


We Out!!!
Sunday, September 13, 2009

Here are Some Randoms from Labor Day

Here are a few shots from the our last trip on Labor Day. Enjoy!!!!


















































Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Labor Day Climbing Trip

Me dropping from the top of a 30ft line
Photo by Caleb Izdepski



So this past labor Day weekend a rather large group of friends went on a deep water soloing trip to Tennessee. It would turn out to be ominous weather over the course of the weekend, but deep water soloing on steep rock in the rain, is just fine.

A few of us left on Friday morning and headed straight to Little River Canyon. LRC is a great place for steep climbing. See previous post. We went to the classic Grey Wall area. Will and Bobby lead up the wall on some 11s. They both loved the roofs at the top. Very tough but very fun. We wound up with three ropes and three leaders. It was the first time that I had climbed with Blair outside. She seemed to be enjoying herself. We climbed about four routes and had to head out due to our late arrival. We headed to what would turn out to be our three night camp site, Shellmound Campground. Shellmound is very close to the DWS spot and to Foster Falls. Dave had secured us a pontoon boat for the next day in advance so all we had to do was pick it up the next day. We stayed up late that night partying and getting shwasted!!! Great fun.

The next day with 14 people on hand we set out for a day of DWS. My buddy Sam brought his Jet ski along which was really fun. We had a canoe to ferry people to and fro from das boat. The weather was not very good, but we were deep water soloing. It didn't matter if there was a little rain. But it did suck when you would get out of the luke warm water and the wind would kick up.
Bobby was blown away by the quality of Limestone that is there. Chris was ready to push it on some great lines. I was overdue for some airy finishes. We warmed up on a 10a one move wonder through some pockets. Everyone seemed to enjoy it. Some of us climbed the roofs and many tufas that the wall has to offer. Chris had the best performance of the day sending what appeared to be a tough 11 or 12 that kept spitting him off at about 30ft. He really was making it happen on that line. Great job Chris!!!

Part of the reason I was out was to test the new Mountain Khakis synthetic shorts from the Snake River collection. I wore them the entire weekend and was very pleased with the way that they performed. I was really interested in how they performed on the rock. It turns out that they are just as sweet as all of my other MKs. I thought that they might be tight and restricting once they were wet. This was not the case at all. They are very light weight and dried a bit between each climb on the boat. I have to say that these are definitely my go to short now for back country activity. After three days of climbing in them there was barely a hint of body odor. I do have to add that having the zippered pockets was clutch for putting my shades, cards and keys in. Great product yet again MKs!!!!
That night we yet again made our holistic journey to Lupis'. We love Lupis' pizza. Not only do we love the pizza there, but they offer an excellent selection of beers too. Not to mention the Fat Tire on tap!!!!
The next day we woke up to very dismal weather. We decided to go into Chatta-Vegas and check out the new climbing gym, Urban Rocks Gym. URG is a wonderful gym made by Rock Works. They did an great job. They have an excellent mix of top rope, lead areas, kids corner, and bouldering. I do not have any photos from the gym but trust me, it is well worth checking out when your in town. After the gym we went to see a movie. We headed back to the camp in the rain and had a few more beers and a gin n juice.
We were only able to climb outside two days and once indoors, but we were able to hang out as a group. We do not get to spend a ton of time together as a whole. So when we can it's great. I love to hang out with friends at the crag just as much as climbing at the crag. That's what cragging is for me.
Anyway, Star and I are prepping for our trip to climb in the Dacks and the Gunks. We will be leaving on the 19th to fly into Albany. Our first stop will be the Gunks. I am working hard on my endurance to be as fit as I can for this trad-stravaganza!!!! On the way to the Dacks we are planning to hang with the g-rents for a few.
Stay tuned for more photos from the Labor Day trip and my past trip to Wyoming. Thanks again to Mountain Khakis, Massey's, and Nebula Multimedia for making all of these trips that much better!!!!

Go Climb Something!!!!
Monday, August 31, 2009

Little River Canyon

This past weekend a buddy and I decided to go check out some new areas that we had not climbed yet too. We wanted to see what the concave was all about. I had never been to Unshackled so I really wanted to check that out. On Thursday night we stayed at the T.A.S. campground right on the LRC. Friday we drove down to Unshackled and climbed a few of the routes. The 10d and a couple of 11s. Tommy wanted to climb the 13 next to Unshackled so we walked over and he made it through the first crux and fell at the second. He finished the route no problem and left his draws, he had some unfinished business with this route.
Next we went to the Concave, RAD!!!!!!! Very nice. I found this spicy 11 that I worked a few times and was very close to redpointing. Tommy on the other had worked Word a few times and finally redpointed it on Saturday. Good work Tommy!!! Word!!!
The next day I had to leave early so we walked down to the Ninja Wall and we were underwhelmed. We walked down to what we thought was the lizard wall and it turned out to be Crazy House. Very impressive area!!! We climbed an 11b and another buddy of ours met up us., Mike I had to roll and mike and Tommy were left to crush it in the not so hot, not so cool LRC.
I only have one good shot. It is of Tommy when we first walked up the the Concave. Enjoy!!!
Monday, August 17, 2009

Great Stick Clip Design



I am about to go on a climbing trip to Alabama and Tennessee. One of the areas that I am going to is Little River Canyon. LRC is wonderful. The steep and overhanging routes are a must visit. But at LRC, like most hard sport areas, you need a stick clip. I have not had one for the last few trips to LRC and wish that I did. So the question is should I buy one or make one.
I found a few designs on the web that looked very adequate. Considering that in the past all I have used is a dead tree limb any design is a drastic improvement. Or is it? The designs from Trango and Superstick look to be the best, but I have not used either. The customer comments online seem very mixed. Some people like how simple they are but comment on how fragile they are. Epic Sports design seems OK but the fact that you have to use tent poles turns me off. If I was hiking far to a sport crag it would make sense, but for now I am not. I just want to find a basic stick clip head that I can attach to a painters extender pole and call it a day. One that I could use to remove a draw and clip the rope in are features that are important too of course. After searching it looks that if I were to buy one it would be the Trango unit the Squid. As I was highly considering pulling the trigger on mountaingear.com for 29.95 plus tax I decided to see about making my own.
I searched stick clip tricks and came across two homemade designs that appear to be legit. The taped carpenters clamp to the painters pole and the hanger that takes more time to build but seemed to be the right choice for me. I have used the clamp stick clip before and was not overly impressed. It definitely works but I want something that will last. I do not want to have to buy tape all of the time. I want something that is simple and does not require assembly every time. The hanger unit idea is from Tom's dirtbag climbing gear tricks, www.tom.grundy.tripod.com/basedir/camfix.html
I found the thickest hanger I could find and started to mold it. It was done in no time. I have two different sized draws so I have to alter the design that I found online, but in the end a perfect hanger stick clip was the result. I went to Lowe's and procured a paint roller, epoxy, a 10 ft painters extender pole( that was the lightest there), and a 3 ft long 1/8" brass wire.
I pulled the roller arm out of the paint roller and epoxied the hanger in its place. After the epoxy dried I was done. It was very easy. The pictures show tools and materials needed to complete this task. If you want one just let me know. I love the fact that I do not need to use tape to make this work too. Very solid.



I am interested in making the hanger wire thicker if I can find wire that will not break when I am tiring to fabricate. The brass brakes after two or three twists. I will use the hanger for now but plan to make a second out of thicker material.

I also have some ideas on making my second unit cheaper and lighter.

The cost now is far below that of all the other units I found. The Epic Sports is only $9.95 but you still have to buy tent pole extenders. That adds $25 very quick.
I will post a update after next weekend on how it works and any changes that should be made.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009

New Climbing Wall Found in NOLA





A very good friend of mine, Bobby, built a climbing wall in a spair room in his house. I had been talking about checking it out, but never made it. Well last night I finally make it over. His wall is great. It is a very steep 40 degrees. Then moves to the ceiling and finally traverses to the opposite wall. It is a great change from the Massey's wall. Don't get me wrong, the wall at Massey's is perfect, but it is nice to climb on different holds every once in a while. Diversity is very good.
He has a tv that he plays climbing DVDs on during the sesh for motivation. And not to mention that it is A/c'ed. I am very pleased with is setup. Looks like a third wall will never hurt. I can not wait to go back and finish some problems that I was working. Bobby has set the routes by color, which is great. Each colored set of holds make a problem and are very diverse in difficulty. He purchased a several holds from So iLL, the same company that supplied the holds for problem number one at the recent bouldering comp in SLC.
He is still planning to add more holds throughout on the blank areas. A climbing wall is never complete. There is always more work to be done. Stay tuned for more climbing in NOLA. We're gonna put this place on the map!!!!