Wednesday, September 30, 2009
The drive to Rumney was brilliant!! It only took a couple of hours and we were there. As we were driving east on Hwy 25 we pulled around Rattlesnake Mtn. and started to get excited when we say the cliffs of Rumney. We did not have a guide so we thought it would be cool to go to the local gear shop and try and get sprayed. It turned out that the closest thing was closed and it also was the climbing gym.
Since it was closed we figured that there would be climbers there, and climbers are always receptive to questions. We drove through Rumney to the first trail head. It was supposed to be cloudy weather but at this point it was sunny with blue skies. We payed the $3 day use fee and headed to the Parking Lot Wall for a warm up. I am not able to name the routes that we did but starting at the main wall we climbed every route on the wall that was not wet. The most fun was a 5.9 far right over a couple of bulges. There were a few routes that looked great but were wet from the rain the day before.
We bumped into a few locals that gave us a spray down and even took us the the Main Wall for a tour. They showed us what we should climb and what we shouldn't. We ended up climbing Underdog 10a. It was obvious from the ground why it was considered a classic. But after climbing it, I wanted it to go another 300 meters. This was my second favorite route on the whole trip, only behind High Exposure in the Gunks. Star Flashed it after me and we headed to do on last line before we had to leave. The wind was starting to pick up and clouds were forming. We climbed a new route only about 50 feet but 5.9+. It has a no hands knee bar about 10 feet off of the ground. The line moves up through side pull jugs to an arete that is great. The fourth bolt is higher than I wanted it to be but it was a great way to end the day.
All in all Rumney was a great choice and wonderful experience. I can not wait to go again. I can say that about all of the places that we visited on our trip. The entire trip, even to Shanty Cliffs was a great experience. Now star can lead on trad and I have seen my tibia.
Next BIG trip is to Thailand in January. Before that we are training for the Triplecrown at HP40 and getting amped for Tennessee Wall season. I do have to say that it will be a little different this year without Alex, but I will try and make him proud and keep the spirit alive!!!!!
Now its off to work and then training 5 days a week for the TC and Thailand!!!!
Since it was closed we figured that there would be climbers there, and climbers are always receptive to questions. We drove through Rumney to the first trail head. It was supposed to be cloudy weather but at this point it was sunny with blue skies. We payed the $3 day use fee and headed to the Parking Lot Wall for a warm up. I am not able to name the routes that we did but starting at the main wall we climbed every route on the wall that was not wet. The most fun was a 5.9 far right over a couple of bulges. There were a few routes that looked great but were wet from the rain the day before.
We bumped into a few locals that gave us a spray down and even took us the the Main Wall for a tour. They showed us what we should climb and what we shouldn't. We ended up climbing Underdog 10a. It was obvious from the ground why it was considered a classic. But after climbing it, I wanted it to go another 300 meters. This was my second favorite route on the whole trip, only behind High Exposure in the Gunks. Star Flashed it after me and we headed to do on last line before we had to leave. The wind was starting to pick up and clouds were forming. We climbed a new route only about 50 feet but 5.9+. It has a no hands knee bar about 10 feet off of the ground. The line moves up through side pull jugs to an arete that is great. The fourth bolt is higher than I wanted it to be but it was a great way to end the day.
All in all Rumney was a great choice and wonderful experience. I can not wait to go again. I can say that about all of the places that we visited on our trip. The entire trip, even to Shanty Cliffs was a great experience. Now star can lead on trad and I have seen my tibia.
Next BIG trip is to Thailand in January. Before that we are training for the Triplecrown at HP40 and getting amped for Tennessee Wall season. I do have to say that it will be a little different this year without Alex, but I will try and make him proud and keep the spirit alive!!!!!
Now its off to work and then training 5 days a week for the TC and Thailand!!!!
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