Friday, July 24, 2009
Thursday I took a chill day and decided to go bouldering. Lori and I decided to check out this area called Bouldertown or Bouldercity north of Jenny Lake. When I was trying to find out information out about the area and problem info I came to a halt. There was no info on the inter-web. I did find a site that said there was 5 to 6 highball boulders and a description of the approach. Bouldering is not like alpine climbing, there is not a lot in "route finding" in bouldering. It is good to know what you are working on especially on a highball with a tricky landing area.
So Lori and I decided to check it out. We found the trail very easily. It took 8 min to find the Y in the trail. It took another 3 to find the main area that was described online. There turned out to be 6 main boulders in this area and about 20 other medium to highball boulders in close proximity. There is a ton of potential for this area.
The center piece of Bouldercity.
We warmed up on the center piece of the main area. I climbed a nice lieback to a ledge system. Probably V1.
V1 Highball
Once on top I noticed that there was two anchor bolts for top roping. Then I moved to something more committing that went at V2. The V2 was a great arete. It was tricky through the fifth move. Very fun. I was walking around some of the boulders around the proximity and found a problem that obviously had never been climbed. It really reminded me of a great problem at Horse Pens 40 in Alabama named Low Down V4. I cleaned off some of the lichen and started to work it.
Once on top I noticed that there was two anchor bolts for top roping. Then I moved to something more committing that went at V2. The V2 was a great arete. It was tricky through the fifth move. Very fun. I was walking around some of the boulders around the proximity and found a problem that obviously had never been climbed. It really reminded me of a great problem at Horse Pens 40 in Alabama named Low Down V4. I cleaned off some of the lichen and started to work it.
Low Down Duex V2.
After a couple of tries on it I was able to send it. I wanted to know if anyone knew if this was a problem or not. So I asked latter in a gear shop and no one even knew about the area. I talked to some Exum guides and they said that they did not really go there. I think that it's V2. If no one has climbed this I would name it Low Down Duex. That might be part of the reason that no one has tried this problem. It is low to the ground, it is easier, and it is surrounded by highballs.
V0 arete on the left.
A fun V0 arete.
We played around on three or four more problems and finished on a sweet traverse. It starts as a sit start and moves higher along a ledge system. The ledge is good but there is no feet. The crux is a hand foot match that is tough. It is probably V3 0r 4. I got a flapper on my third attempt and did not have any tape.
We walked around after and looked at all of the potential of this area.
This shot gives perspective on the size of the boulders.
There are hundreds of problems that are just waiting to be done. I really wish I had more time to climb in this area. Not to mention the view of Mt. Moran.
On Friday is was very rainy and stormy so we took a rest and planning day. We are headed into the Wind River Range on Sunday afternoon so we had a few things to consider. We are going to be climbing many routes. East Ridge on the Wolf's Head, SouthButtress on Pingora to name a couple. We are planning on climbing until we only have nubs left. Bloody, bloody nubs.
Saturday Lori and I went mountain biking. She took me on a really fun down hill singletrack. It was two trails, Cashe to Game trails.
The pass.
It was a six mile ride up to a beautiful pass. Then we had a three mile no pedal section to a great less steep lower section that was very intense.
This is right after the steep section from the pass.
I am very proud to say that I endoed four times. Not to mention the many other times that I fell. I love to go Fast!!!! It was absolutely wonderful. The views were great and the decent was worth it.
Today we are packing for the Winds and figuring out who is going to carry what. It is an 8 mile hike in with a 5 to 20 min approach depending where you bivy. We are very excited and I am ready to get some longer routes in.
Stay Tuned for amazing photos from the Winds.
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