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Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Europe 3


On May 6th Star and I arrived in Cagliari. We rented a car and headed up thru the mountains towards Tortoli. The island of Sardinia is amazing. tar nor I have ever experienced anything like it. The flora reminds us both of the southwest US. Which if you do not know is where we hope to live someday. The fauna on the other hand is not locale. The farmed animals are pigs, goats, sheep, and cows. One of my favorite cheeses comes from this great island, pecorino.
We zigged a few times when we should have zagged, which added a hour or so to our drive. But the views were amazing. We arrived at The Lemon House to meet Peter and Anne. Peter gave us the beta for the surrounding are and the keys to our flat. We headed to our wonderful flat for a much needed rest for the next days events. We woke every morning and ate breakfast an a flower covered balcony.
Star and I met up with Peter on the 7th of May. He was going to show us a few spots to climb and climb with us that day. We headed to Pedra Longa which is accessed by a very steep road. We passed by several crags that Peter helped to develop. When we arrived to Pedra Longa and had an amazing view of Punta Giradili. I really wanted to drop everything I was doing and head for Mediterraneo 7a, 6b obbl. It is the line farthest to the left right before the huge cave. There is another beautiful line up the most pronounced part of the face named Wolfgang Gullich 7a, 6a obbl. I want to go back and climb these routes some day.

We headed back up and hiked to Creuza de Ma', which is a road side crag with a 5 minute approach. There are routes from 5a to 7b+. We started on Geordie 5a. Then the Route to the left to the same anchors Amore Che Vai 5b. Then on to Amore Che Vieni 5c. We were taking our time trying to get used to the quality of the rock. The limestone in this area is wonderful. Very good quality. Not bomber in all areas, but very good overall. To the left again was a beautiful arete that would turn out to be my favorite climb of the day. Tough move low with the crux up top under a slight lip. The climb was L'amore Vecchia 6a+. Peter and Star liked the previous climb more but I preferred the moves on L'amore. I led it, then Star, and then Peter.
We next moved around the bend so Peter could check out the moves on a route he has been eyeing. He worked the moves and wound up linking the route. We climbed Dolce Luna 6b and Il Gorilla 6b/c. Il Gorilla was my kind of route. Overhung and pumpy. I loved this route, but it was the last climb of the day and I sat at the crux. Star liked it but she was tired as well. The view to say the least the entire day was rather breathtaking.

We left and headed for a pizza joint next to our apartment. It was rather disappointing. Very thin crust and VERY oily. We ate fast and headed home for some shut eye. We had a very big day for the next day. We would be headed to Cala Golorizte to climb the 165m Aguglia.

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