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Thursday, March 25, 2010

Red Rock and The Red

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 4:58 PM / / 0 comments









Photo by Dyan



So I have had some time to think about last week in Red Rock Canyon and I have to say that it was a great trip. Not just that I was able procure my AMGA certification but the sweet folks that I met along the was. Viren and Julie are some of the coolest peeps I've met in my travels. Julie is a PT and Viren holds all of the job titles that I hope to have one day. Jason Martin is a really cool guy that seems to have experienced a ton and I hope to meet up with him in April and May for some pitches. Dyan, who works at AAI with Viren and Jason, is a cool chick that was a great climbing partner. Not to mention the sweet dudes from my SPI class. I must have a ton of good karma built up to have crossed paths with these wonderful people.
Next is The Red River Gorge in Kentucky. We leave tomorrow, Friday. I am very excited to go back to the Red. I am much stronger now and I ready to climb some of the stuff that I flailed on last year. And not to mention all of the routes that I looked at climbing but not having a chance to. This trip is twice as long, so I should have time to climb a ton of classics. I have a large tick list that I have been compiling for a year.

On the trip I will be having a birthday. So it looks like we will be parting quite a bit. The New Belgium Ranger IPA will be on hand for sure. Not to mention Dave's amazing pies.

So off to the Red tomorrow to crush. Stay tuned and go climb some rocks.
Friday, March 19, 2010

Red Rock Canyon

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 5:26 PM / / 0 comments























































So here are some quick shots from yesterday and today. I have not been able to take pictures due to my AMGA SPI course. Oh yea by the way I am an AMGA SPI. Which means that the American Mountain Guide Association and the AAI, American Alpine Institute, have certified my to take folks of all abilities out on guided trips. Me being the guide of course. I am very excited!!! I have accomplished so many of my goals in the last two years. I am very proud of myself.
On a side note it looks like I will be headed to Tokyo, Japan in July. As most of you know my wife is a pediatrician in the Air Force and we are being shipped to Tokyo. We are very excited and super pumped to make it happen. I have a friend that has a climbing gym, gear shop, and guide service in Tokyo. I hope to meet up with him and try and get things rolling. Who knows.
Anyway here are some shots. Very fun and steep!! Enjoy. Off to the Red Rocks Rendezvous.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Sedona

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 10:33 PM / / 0 comments














In the spirit of heading out to the desert on Friday here are some pictures from Sedona. I love red rocks!!!!
Monday, March 8, 2010

Alabama Has Great Lines

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 8:24 PM / / 0 comments

















Here are some photos from this past weekend. A couple buddies and I went to LRC and climbed some hard shit. I normally like to climb several lines when I go on trips. I don't get out to climb but a couple times a month and when I do I want to climb. I try and climb right under my peak to build technique and endurance. But this weekend we climbed a 10d, 2x 11a, 2x 12a, 12b, and Mike gave a GREAT effort on the Word, 13a. Also Mike finally sent his long standing project Iron Mike 12a. This is Mikes first 12a, Great job Mike!!!
Need less to say, we were pumped to climb and motivated to push our selves. Nick, who previously only lead a 5.9, red pointed a 10d and 11a. Mike and I are very impressed by how motivated he is. We also went bouldering in LRC. We had a great weekend all in all.
I am still working on pushing myself to the next level. I have a third 12a that will go next time I head up to LRC. I am excited to give it another go.
Trip updates: I am headed this next week to climb in Red Rocks and procure my AMGA SPI cert. I am super stoked and I am very ready to have a blast in Red Rocks!!!!! Not to mention that Red Rock Rendezvous is happening when I will be there, so I will be taking some classes.
Enjoy and go climb some rocks!!!!
Monday, February 22, 2010

T-Wall and Stone Fort

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 9:53 PM / / 1 comments
The end of the hard part of Super Mario

So I added the end of another problem to it to make it even more fun



Fun move high left



Bad side pull on right hand




Big move to the finish, super fun!!!!




Star on Hairy Undercling, Crescent Boulder




Moving into the crux of Digital Macabre





Star just past the crux of Cake Walk






Star loving CW




This past weekend my wife and I went on a late Valentine's Day trip to Chattanooga. It was one of the best trips that I have taken to Chatty yet. We stayed in a great bed and breakfast in Chatty. On Saturday we woke to perfect conditions for Twall. We hiked up and climbed Goldenlocks 5.8+, Cake Walk 10a, and Digital Macabre 10b/c. The temps were in the 50's and the sun was out to keep things just right. I sent CW clean and sat once on DM in the crux. Macabre will go next try.

On Sunday we went to check out Stone Fort. I had been there once before and just walked around. So this was my first time really climbing there. Star and I warmed up on the Crescent Boulder. We climbed the three v0-v3 on the front and the seemingly easy v2 and v4 on the back. All fun but my real goal from the day was to find some projects and send Super Mario v4/5.

We made it to Super Mario and after figuring out the beta I sent pretty easy. It turns out that there are several other problems ranging from v3-v8 on the same face. I wound up working the higher top out on the boulder to give SM a harder finish. I did the top section but could not link the whole thing. I was pumped after climbing all day and figured that I would be back in a couple of weeks and I would send then along with some harder stuff.

So here are the pictures and I will be posting more as I go through them.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Foster Falls '09

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 10:11 AM / / 0 comments

Star Having a blast on a Foster Falls classic Fish-Eyed Fool 10b
Friday, February 12, 2010

Mike on Mulletino

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 9:24 PM / / 0 comments
Roof section of Mulletino


Mulletino V6 (grade from the new guide)



Mike sent his three month standing no more proj. He was psyched to say the least. Way to go man. And of course when he sent it I had to try it and I few in love with the moves too. And yes it is on my list now. I can not wait until next weekend!!!!!! And March 5 weekend!!!! I frigging Psyched, I mean I am very excited and am looking forward to a session of crush.
Not to mention that in March I can pick up my new copy of the HP guide fresh off the press. I have one held just for me. I am very excited. Full color, great descriptions. Looks to be another great guide. Very similar to the Reds guide in terms of easy navigation and color topos. Secure yours today.
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