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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Creating a climbing DVD

I am currently collaborating with one of my sponsors, Nebula Multimedia, to create a climbing DVD of my last few and several upcoming trips. This process is still in it's infancy but I will be posting more info about the process and progress soon.


GO Climb Something!!!
Monday, June 29, 2009

This is What a Real Bachelor Party is Like




For Alex's bachelor party we decided to go on a climbing trip to Alabama and Tennessee. We being Alex, Barry, Dave (who would meet up with us on Saturday), and I, are not into the "normal" activities of a bachelor party. So we decided to go cragging and meet real people instead of heading to a stripe club. We talked about where to go and Little River Canyon always ended up on the list. So we headed to Horse Pens 40 to camp on the first night. We woke up at 6:30am and climbed a few problems there. The friction believe it or not was not that bad, considering it is June. Our friend Barry had never seen HP40 before so we felt obligated to show him around.
We left and headed to Foster Falls. FF is a wonderful summer sport area. We chased the shade all afternoon. We climbed a couple 10as and a 5.9, then headed to a route that I had tried twice before. I was feeling good and decided to go for the redpoint. Somethings Always Wrong 10d, is a great line. It starts out as a 5.9 then turns into a 10 at the lip of a roof. The following three bolts are 10b with a two move sequence at the top that are definitely 10d. I was super pumped but very happy I sent. Video will be up soon of the send. We took a quick dip in the falls and headed to Lupi's for some much needed pizza and beer. We stayed at Raccoon Mt. camp ground that night because of its close proximity to Chattanooga.
The next day we headed to Sunset Park to put in a couple lines before 10am. We put up two routes and needed to head south quick to meet Dave. Sunset by the way is a great area to climb in during the summer, in the morning. It is very hot in the afternoon.
After Sunset we drove down to the Little River Canyon to meet Dave and climb some killer over hanging sport routes. The Little River has so much climbing to offer. The Little River Canyon would truly be one of the top sport climbing areas in the east if more sectors were opened up.
We climbed at the Gray Wall area. The routes here start at 11a. The routes are stiff and require a stick clip or highball confidence. We climbed an 11a, 11b, 11c/d, and a 12c. I should not say we climbed a 12c, Alex climbed a 12c. I made it through the first boulder problem in the roof then fell. There was still two more very tough sequences. Very pumpy. But an excellent route for a 12c climber.
That night we met up with a friend and stayed in the Desoto State Park. It rained that night and we had to cut our party short. We were able to waking up early enough to leave for 8am, which gave us another great start on the day. We were headed for Sandrock. Sandrock is a great area to climb at year round. It is a great place to climb at if you are learning to lead sport or if you are leading 12s.

We set up a very delicate 10c to warm up on then climbed a very stiff 9+, 10d roof, and a 12d roof. The 10d was wonderful. The 12d not so much. After the 12 I walked around a corner to see a great 10a that was overhanging at the top that needed to be lead. The moves on the route were great. Alex sent a 11a next to it as I pushed thought the crux.

All in all the trip was a great success. Alex had a great time. And I was able to send some hard routes. I will always remember these trips to Alabama and Tennessee with Alex forever. They are some of the fondest memories I have.


Go Climb Something!!!!!
Wednesday, June 24, 2009

New Longboard




A very good friend of Star and I, made me a longboard. Well today when I walked into the house there she was in all of her glory. I tore into the box only to be flabbergasted by this amazing piece of......... art. At first I did not know weather to hang it on my wall or ride it. I love it. I can see once again how great Sean is as an Artist and a Carpenter.

This is Sean's fifth board (for more on Sean's great ideas and boards, theyearofthebicycle.blogspot.com). He called me last week and told me to beware. He told me that the board was messed up. Well after a careful review, it is in perfect condition. (Just a side note to anyone out there trying to find someone to make them something, find a perfectionist. You will never be let down.) He put in extra details all over. From the water meter graphic on the bottom to the fleurdelis cut into the grip tape.
Star and I will be moving from NOLA in a year and I am uber happy with these details. I can't wait to put some trucks on this bad boy and take her for a spin. I am headed out west in a couple of weeks and will be taking my SA#5(Sean Armstrong) with me. Stay tuned for photos of me reteaching myself how to broad again. I guess I should pull out the med kit.
Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Mountain Khaki Graphic


I am not sure if you know but I am a Mountain Khaki ambassador. I love MK. I have been wearing MK pants and shorts for a long time now. I started to wear them when I was looking for a pair of pants that I could climb in. I needed something durable, that could withstand constant stress. MK was and is the answer. I love the Teton Twill pant. I am wearing the Teton Twill Short now. I am in New Orleans with the temp at 98F, with the heat index over 105F. So the shorts are a must. Do not forget to check out the new Snake River Collection coming out in the Spring of 2010.


Anyway, here is my last concoction from Photoshop. I thought it looked cool.

Buy Some Mountain Khakis!!!!! They fit great!!!!! And I do love the way my butt looks in them.
Thursday, June 18, 2009

New Climbing Grade Chart

I saw this on 8a.nu and thought that it was worth sharing. It is definitely a good idea to take a look at. especially if you are headed to Europe. Or the Us for that matter. Thanks 8a.nu!!!




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Jerzu Route Topo

As everyone can see I have been editing a ton of the photos that Star and I have. The most recent update is from our climbing trip to Jerzu. When we were there we did not have a photo of the crag. All of the maps in the guides that we had only shows topos that are drawn. So I decided to make one. Here it is.

Il Castello in Jerzu

Trip Update

So as of today it looks like I will have a travel buddy through Denver. Star let me know that she was able to adjust her schedule and come with me. She found a one-way flight from Denver to NOLA for $120!!!!! A screaming deal. I am super pumped. So the ride to Denver will not be as boring. This is a somewhat less tentative itinerary of my grand trip out west.


I will head out of NOLA on the July 12th @3am. I am not leaving earlier due to close friends being married on the 11th. I am not planning to stop, until arriving in Boulder, Co. Star and I have a friend in Denver that we would love to see. So that will be fun for us both. This is a climbing trip for me so I am planning to be climbing at least five days a week. I have a crash pad so no matter what I will be doing something. Rest days I will be riding single track.

Since Star will be with me for a couple of days in Boulder I think it is best that we head to either Eldo Canyon or Upper Dream Canyon in Boulder Canyon. I am very interested to climb some very hard multi-pitch routes. It is time to pull my limits even farther.

I will drop Star off at the airport and make the eight hour drive to Jackson, Wy. I am very excited to meet up with Chris and Lori. (On a side note, they are currently on a month long road trip up the west coast to finish in Squamish. Then to Jackson, Wy where Chris guides for Exum.) From here my exact details are a little fuzzy. I still want to climb in Montana and Idaho. But that depends on finding people to climb with. I am hoping to meet up with some folks from Mountain Khaki, who I am an Ambassador for, to kick it with. I am going to the Outdoor Retailer Show in SLC the week of the 2oth of July. I am planning to meet up with some friends from Black Diamond to climb with around SLC.

I am looking forward the most to climbing in the Tetons. I wonder if I will even be able pull myself away from Jackson. Who knows. That's what I have so far. Stay tuned for a totally different detailed itinerary soon.