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Thursday, May 26, 2011

Melt Down IPA



I like beer. I guess what I should say is I love IPA. In the past few years I have grown to really appreciate the sometimes jolting taste of a high quality IPA. Saying that, I am not a beer expert by any strech of the imagination. I am just a rock climber who happens to love IPAs. Now that I live in Japan and IPA's are hard to find where I live, I have decided to write about them when I come across one. In this case I have come across eight. And first up.....

While I was in Alaska I was able to sample several beers. Some I had before, some I had never heard of. The one that stands out the most is Midnight Suns Melt Down double IPA. Measuring in at 8.0% ABV and 80 IBUs the Midnight Sun is a micro brewery in Anchorage, AK. MS brews several IPAs throughout the year. The Sockeye Red IPA is there non seasonal that was very satisfying, but not to the degree of the Melt Down.

Like I said before, I am no beer expert. But the Melt Down has a very nice balance of sweet and bitter. The selected hops gives a very floral smell to start and a nice pop to your tongue right after you swallow. This beer is not overpowering like some DIPAs can be. But rather pundgent with an aromatic hoppiness that will leave you wanting a second.

Let me know if you have ever had this beer and what you think of the Melt Down. I will be posting a series of on the beers that I have come across in my journeys.
Sunday, May 22, 2011





















More beautiful photos from AK. I have a few more that I am working up right now. But I am putting a bit more English into these. Enjoy for now.

Oh yea, the weather here is nasty yet again. I sure hope the rainy season has not started yet.
























Alaska, Alaska. What a beautiful place. So pure. I will write more later. Photos just for now.
Wednesday, May 11, 2011













Yes I am talking about Alaska. We are going to Anchorage on Saturday and will be staying for a week. I have never been to Alaska, so I am looking forward to this trip very much. Star has more training on the military base there and Gavin and I are planning on checking out the surrounding mountains. I am aware that this time of the year there are many hungry bears out, so GnE will not be venturing out too far by ourselves.

That said I have very lose plans to take some photos on the water and in Anchorage. I know of a few climbing areas that are on my list to visit too. Gavin and I are meeting Star's grandparents for the first time next week. Long over due. I have heard so much about them I can not wait to meet them.

This should be a great trip and I hope I am able to take some nice pictures. We will see. Here are some random pics from the last month. Enjoy and My next post should be from Alaska and hopefully drinking an IPA!!!!


Go Climb Something!!!
Monday, May 9, 2011
The Real Gigolo



Child's Play



Child's Play lower roof



Just after the Crux







Joyama today was great. We went to Wild Boar Gorge. WBG is a steep sport climbing area that must be visited by all climbers in Japan that climb in the 11+ to 14a range. A very nice area with some nice history. Jack Nakane, Yuji Hirayama, and Dai Koyamada, to name a few, all have FAs here.

Hiroko and I started with Jack's 12b, Child's Play. The route is very fun and all of the moves require your attention. If you are tall like me(for Japanese standards) the moves are not tough until you reach the last bolt. The small crimp and terrible pinches had our attention for sure. I think I can send it, but I will have to work out the top moves. Hit Chan is in the same boat.

Shuji's project is a 13d through an overhanging face that has it all. One jug, several crimps, and at least seven slopers that are just not enough. Shuji one hung today, and I know he will send soon. He looks very strong on all of the moves.

I climbed another classic, Gigolo 11b/c. This route really reminded me of climbing back home in the Little River Canyon. An overhung line about 70 feet long. The rock is no where near as good, but it is very close to sandstone. There are no jugs on this one. The line is chalked full of sloper ledges and OK sidepulls. Gigolo is well protected and I will redpoint next time I go.

On this trip I set up a couple of flashes for more practice. I think that this round was far better than the last and infinitely better than the time before that. I played around a bit with my f stop and ISO but tried to keep my shutter around 125 due to the action/climbing. I still have several that are a bit blurry, but overall I am very pleased. I hope that as I am posting photos that you can notice improvement in the composition or at least in the picture quality.

I will be taking a couple of days to rest but i think that a new area is in the works for this week. Till next time.....


Go Climb Something!!!!
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Coffee Can Knife V4 FA



Jack's Pinch



Jack sends Ideal Johnson with ease, V5/6



One of the three long tough moves






Golden week has been the most widely celebrated holiday in Japan thus far. I have never seen so many people outside. I do not fully understand what the holiday is for, but it has something to do with the emperor.

Anyway, for a break from the city Gavin and I joined Jack and his wife for some bouldering at Mizugaki. We met up at the new area and decided to try a few new potential problems. Jack also wanted to send his V5/6 that we finished cleaning last week.

The first boulder of the day was one that had been wet on one side in previous trips but to our delight we found it quite dry. The Coffee Can boulder is small on this side, but has three stiff, fun problems. The same boulder on the northern side is the site of the 25+ foot lines that we closed last week. This is where Jacks Ideal Johnson V5/6 is. Jack cleaned it and sent first go. I on the other hand took my time to make it to the last scary dead point. After several tries and copious skin loss, I decided to try and send next week.

The trip was a success though. I played with a borrowed flash and I believe that I took a few nice shots. Jack took a few nice ones too I might add. In total this area now has 2 V2's, 3 V3's, 3 V4's, 2 V5's, 1 V5/6, 1 V 6, and over 25 lines yet to be climbed. And there are too MANY lines for me to ever be able to climb in my life here.

This weekend I am planning on heading to Mitake for some bouldering and shooting. I have lots of work to do with this flash technology. Monday I am going to Joyama with Hiroko and Shuji. Shuji and Hit Chan are working some projects so I hope I can take some sweet shots of them in action!!! We will see. There is a cool looking 12a that Jack put up there that I want to get on. Should be fun.

Enjoy the pictures and remember.....



Go Climb Something!!!!!
Sunday, May 1, 2011



















Here are some photos from today's visit to the new area. Hiroko and Shuji came out from Tokyo to check this place out. They really like it. What a fun place to climb.