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Monday, July 19, 2010

Oregon Coast

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 4:37 PM / / 0 comments






Three Sisters



On the way back to Washington Star thought it would be cool to take the 101 home. So that's what we did.
Viva la Prego!!!
Go Climb Something!!!!
Sunday, July 18, 2010

Smith Day 3 and 4

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 3:54 PM / / 0 comments
Star on a classic line at Smith

Andy working a 11d, strong work



Calm and cool on Panic Attack 12a


Still smooth on PA



Sun set at Smith




Here are a few pictures from the third and fourth days. We checked out the Morning Glory wall and the Phoenix walls. Both are littered with wonderful lines. The last day I went for the send on Panic Attack but slipped at the top with no more daylight. Sucks but I know I could have send on my third go. Silly mistake of feet too low. Anyway Here are a few shots that we liked. Hope you will too.


Go Climb Something!!!!!

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Smith Rock Day 1 and 2

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 12:35 PM / / 0 comments


















So Smith Rock is pretty sweet!!! Star and I arrived to Terrebonne on Monday afternoon. We arrived to shade on the east walls with a substantial amount of wind. The weather now is perfect. Of course that's in the shade. In the sun you are miserable. Anyway, we hiked down to the Christian Brothers area and realised right away that we would be buying a stick clip that night. Many of the older routes' starting bolts are 12 to 18ft off of the ground!!!!! Stick it or die that's been my motto. We climbed some very cool lines on day one trying to get used to the rock. All of the 10s that we have climbed have been very polished. The 11s so far are polished a bit less and the 12s have chalked hands and some polished feet. All in all the routes here are stiff. After climbing here two days I have figured this place out a bit. Onsighting here is tough but red pointing is easier. The rock appears crumbly but is actually very nice. For me it has been tough adapting to the foot holds here. I seem to look for the chalked hold when I should be looking for a hold in the area of need. Smith is heady and super fun.

We actually were able to meet up with some friends that we met in Thailand. Totally random. Jen and Andy are super cool and we are going to climb with them tomorrow.
On the second day, we climbed at the Dihedrals area then moved farther down the Christian Bros. wall. We climbed Wedding Day 10a, Hersey 11c, Earth Boy 10b, and Overnight Sensation 11b that was as hard as any 12a that I have climbed. Great days so far.
So we are heading out now will post more photos soon.

Go Climb Something!!!!1

Random Pics from Chatty

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 12:19 PM / / 0 comments







































Saturday, July 10, 2010

More Great Chatty Photos

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 2:56 PM / / 0 comments
Chris with a bomber side pull on a tufa

Bruce finishing a fun line




Bruce pulling on edges


Clipping bolts on Snake Charmer



Starting the roof




Mike doing a back flip from 40ft





Pull hard Mike!!!!






Arno and Star climbing at Sunset





A few steps before the fall





Bruce king of the high line

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Chattanooga day 3 and 4

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 10:36 AM / Labels: / 0 comments
Bruce under the roof of La Pistoal 12a








La Pistola send



The moves before the crimp



Mike grabbing the crimp on the dyno




Eddie going for the crimp





Mike loosing the heal 40 ft up




Bruce setting up




Chris squeezing his way up two tufas




Arno with no shoes




Right before I planted ass on ground




Bruce on the high line







Our third day started out with a nice breakfast. Bruce and I paddled out to the cliff in a canoe. Everyone else drove over to Hale's Marina and rented a pontoon boat and rode over. The day was perfect. Sunny with periodic shade from high clouds. In the past years of climbing on Nickajack I have not really tried a bunch of new lines. This trip I only climbed inspiring beautiful lines. I have heard description about lines and grades attached to them, but honestly I could careless about all of that. I like being pushed as far as I can be pushed and fall into the water. I love the free feeling that I have with deep water soloing. It is as close as I will probably get to free soloing at or near my limit.

There are many wonderful lines that are of all difficulties. The lines farthest to the left on the steep tufas are beyond sweet. Steep pockets and pinching tufas, rad!!! One line that we worked was a cool line to a huge jug dyno to a crimp. All points off. No one polled it off, but we did take some great shots of going for it.

On the fourth day we climbed at Foster Falls again. We scampered down to the Jimmywood wall. There is a great selection of lines on the higher sector. From L to R it's 10b, 10b, 12a, 8+, 10a, and 11a. So we Climbed all but the 10a. I looked at the 12a from the ground and it looked like there were only one or two hard moves. So I roped up and moved through the roof and fell trying to pull on a crimp that I did not even need. I lowered and send on the next go. La Pistola is a fun line, but I wish the roof was 6 moves longer. Next we climbed the 11a roof Snake Charmer. SC is a fun line that should be climbed a ton more. I think that because it is high off the trail is why it is over looked. If you are at Jimmywood check it out, well worth it.

That night my buddy Bruce and I sent up a high line slackline. About 10ft off of the ground. Bruce was better than me. Not to mention that I ate shit from very high. Killer fun!!

The next day we climbed at Urban Rocks Gym. Great gym. We were super tired and headed home after. On a side note today is our last day in NOLA. We head to Washington tomorrow. This trip before Japan is going to be great. We plan on going to Smith Rock for a while and crank hard. I really want to pull on some 12's very bad!!! We also are planning to backpack into the Enchantments and climb some alpine lines. Prusik Peak, Stuart Ridge, West Ridge, etc. And Leavenworth is for sure on the radar. Stay tuned for that.

Here are a few photos from these days, enjoy.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Chattanooga Day 1 and 2

Posted by Eddie Gianelloni at 9:58 AM / Labels: / 0 comments
Eddie not afraid of the send on Sinsophrenia

A quick shake on great gear


Star pulling off the final moves on the Cobbler


Kevan pulling through the crux at the bottom of the Cobbler



Last week Star and I, along with my buddy Kevan, headed to Chatty for one last trip from NOLA. We arrived around 7pm on Wednesday. We set up camp at Foster Falls in preparation for the next day of climbing here. Lately I have been on a big kick to climb lines that I have not ever tried for various reasons in the past. So We headed to the Dihedral area and I warmed up on Narcissism 10b. Kevan had not climbed outside in four years. So this probably was not the best line for him to climb. But he made it up and loved every move. Star, who is 6 months prego, climbed it and liked the moves as well. We ran into a copperhead at the base and decided to move farther down and we climbed Foster Child 10d, Miss Prissy 9, Miss Scarlet, and Diamond Cutter 10c. It was a fun warm up day and I believe that Kevan and Star had as much fun as I did.


The next day we moved camp to Shell Mound Campground and headed over to Sunset. I have climbed several times at Sunset, but never in the southern sectors. So we ventured to the southern areas to climb for a few hours. Arno Ilgner, developer of The Warriors Way, and his son were meeting up with us too. We hiked to the first area which has a nice array of climbs from 8+ to 10d. We climbed Dodge City 9, the Cobbler 9, and Sinsophrenia 10a.


Arno and his son hung out with us in the afternoon. In the morning they hiked up to T-Wall to work on son techniques. We ended up going to Lupi's for dinner. And yet again no disappointment from their wonderful pizzas. When we arrived back at camp the rest of our friends were there setting up camp.


The first couple of days were an absolute blast. The next few days would prove to be even better!!! Stay tuned for deep water soloing on Nickajack Lake, sending another 12a at Fosters, and high line slack lining.

Go Climb Something!!!!
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