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Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Eco Grip Gel




As usual I made my way to Calafata in Tokyo to play with all of the new gear and to have lunch with Jack. Among the many new shoes, harnesses, carabiners, and clothes was the this gel. The new NST Eco Grip gel is awesome!!! I am not into the liquid chalk scene at all, except for DWS. Liquid chalk is all over in Japan. Jack brought me over to the shop's climbing wall and asked me to hold onto a sloper pinch and lift my feet. Of course it was a fixed test and I could not lift my feet for any measure of time. We then lathered our hands in a small amount of Eco Grip Gel and after waiting about 1.5 mins Jack said "Again". This time to my surprise I was able to not only hang from the hold for 10 secs with my strong hand but, I was able to hang for 8 secs with my weak hand. "SOLD!!!!" I said to him in a flash.

This new Eco Gel is alcohol free, non-toxic, and biodegradable. There is no dust and the gel lasts all problem long (this is dependent on how much you choose to lather on). NST is a French company that makes an assortment of outdoor goodies. I think the guys at NST got this one right. I put my stamp of approval all over this one. Off to go climbing.

Ciao!


Go Climb Something!!!!
Monday, May 30, 2011

Organic Stick Clip




























A simple ,easy, no frills way to stick clip on the fly. This is for clipping a rope into the first draw or as some like to call it, wienie clipping, without using anything extra. Not tape required.

First take two bites of rope. Make sure to leave your self enough tail on the side that you will tie into once the rope is clipped correctly into the draw.
Make an overhand knot with the two bites. Pull the knot tight.
Next find a branch long enough to reach the draw. Cram the stick into the knot in between the two bites.
Locate and grab the "tie in" side of the rope. Hold this side and the stick in the same hand to prevent the bite from pulling through the knot. Making sure to keep your rope on the outside of the draw, put this bite around the draw and slowly pull the bite tight.
If done correctly the rope should easily clip right into the draw no problem. Just make sure your side of the rope is on the outside to prevent back clipping.

Happy clipping!!!

Osaka and Kyoto

Shinkansen



Real ramen shop



Lotus



The Guardian


It rained the entire time we were in the south. Kyoto is amazing and very old. Osaka is a larger port city. The remarkable temples are surrounded by 30 story buildings. The bad weather was due to a typhoon that blew in the entire time we were there. When I say this you might imagine gale force winds and waves crashing. No. There was just spitting rain the entire time. Enough to move around in but make you wish it would stop.

We took the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto first, then the local line to Osaka. There are more sights to see in Kyoto then are humanly possible to see. Osaka has many sights to see, but we spent the two days we had in the underground tunnel systems around the train station. FYI if you are planning on traveling to these cities, the hotels in the train station are very nice. Some are pricey, but worth the extra money because of location.

We originally planned to go to the Kasagi bouldering area south of Kyoto, but it rained to entire time. I am not sure if I have said this enough. We did go to Crux bouldering gym one night. The owner, Yuki, is very nice and she has a fantastic venue. If you are in the area check it out.

This all said, I was not able to take many good photos. Here are a few from the trip.

Sorry that there is not more to this post but really it rained the whole time.


Go Climb Something in the sun!!!
Thursday, May 26, 2011

Melt Down IPA



I like beer. I guess what I should say is I love IPA. In the past few years I have grown to really appreciate the sometimes jolting taste of a high quality IPA. Saying that, I am not a beer expert by any strech of the imagination. I am just a rock climber who happens to love IPAs. Now that I live in Japan and IPA's are hard to find where I live, I have decided to write about them when I come across one. In this case I have come across eight. And first up.....

While I was in Alaska I was able to sample several beers. Some I had before, some I had never heard of. The one that stands out the most is Midnight Suns Melt Down double IPA. Measuring in at 8.0% ABV and 80 IBUs the Midnight Sun is a micro brewery in Anchorage, AK. MS brews several IPAs throughout the year. The Sockeye Red IPA is there non seasonal that was very satisfying, but not to the degree of the Melt Down.

Like I said before, I am no beer expert. But the Melt Down has a very nice balance of sweet and bitter. The selected hops gives a very floral smell to start and a nice pop to your tongue right after you swallow. This beer is not overpowering like some DIPAs can be. But rather pundgent with an aromatic hoppiness that will leave you wanting a second.

Let me know if you have ever had this beer and what you think of the Melt Down. I will be posting a series of on the beers that I have come across in my journeys.
Sunday, May 22, 2011





















More beautiful photos from AK. I have a few more that I am working up right now. But I am putting a bit more English into these. Enjoy for now.

Oh yea, the weather here is nasty yet again. I sure hope the rainy season has not started yet.
























Alaska, Alaska. What a beautiful place. So pure. I will write more later. Photos just for now.
Wednesday, May 11, 2011













Yes I am talking about Alaska. We are going to Anchorage on Saturday and will be staying for a week. I have never been to Alaska, so I am looking forward to this trip very much. Star has more training on the military base there and Gavin and I are planning on checking out the surrounding mountains. I am aware that this time of the year there are many hungry bears out, so GnE will not be venturing out too far by ourselves.

That said I have very lose plans to take some photos on the water and in Anchorage. I know of a few climbing areas that are on my list to visit too. Gavin and I are meeting Star's grandparents for the first time next week. Long over due. I have heard so much about them I can not wait to meet them.

This should be a great trip and I hope I am able to take some nice pictures. We will see. Here are some random pics from the last month. Enjoy and My next post should be from Alaska and hopefully drinking an IPA!!!!


Go Climb Something!!!
Monday, May 9, 2011
The Real Gigolo



Child's Play



Child's Play lower roof



Just after the Crux







Joyama today was great. We went to Wild Boar Gorge. WBG is a steep sport climbing area that must be visited by all climbers in Japan that climb in the 11+ to 14a range. A very nice area with some nice history. Jack Nakane, Yuji Hirayama, and Dai Koyamada, to name a few, all have FAs here.

Hiroko and I started with Jack's 12b, Child's Play. The route is very fun and all of the moves require your attention. If you are tall like me(for Japanese standards) the moves are not tough until you reach the last bolt. The small crimp and terrible pinches had our attention for sure. I think I can send it, but I will have to work out the top moves. Hit Chan is in the same boat.

Shuji's project is a 13d through an overhanging face that has it all. One jug, several crimps, and at least seven slopers that are just not enough. Shuji one hung today, and I know he will send soon. He looks very strong on all of the moves.

I climbed another classic, Gigolo 11b/c. This route really reminded me of climbing back home in the Little River Canyon. An overhung line about 70 feet long. The rock is no where near as good, but it is very close to sandstone. There are no jugs on this one. The line is chalked full of sloper ledges and OK sidepulls. Gigolo is well protected and I will redpoint next time I go.

On this trip I set up a couple of flashes for more practice. I think that this round was far better than the last and infinitely better than the time before that. I played around a bit with my f stop and ISO but tried to keep my shutter around 125 due to the action/climbing. I still have several that are a bit blurry, but overall I am very pleased. I hope that as I am posting photos that you can notice improvement in the composition or at least in the picture quality.

I will be taking a couple of days to rest but i think that a new area is in the works for this week. Till next time.....


Go Climb Something!!!!
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Coffee Can Knife V4 FA



Jack's Pinch



Jack sends Ideal Johnson with ease, V5/6



One of the three long tough moves






Golden week has been the most widely celebrated holiday in Japan thus far. I have never seen so many people outside. I do not fully understand what the holiday is for, but it has something to do with the emperor.

Anyway, for a break from the city Gavin and I joined Jack and his wife for some bouldering at Mizugaki. We met up at the new area and decided to try a few new potential problems. Jack also wanted to send his V5/6 that we finished cleaning last week.

The first boulder of the day was one that had been wet on one side in previous trips but to our delight we found it quite dry. The Coffee Can boulder is small on this side, but has three stiff, fun problems. The same boulder on the northern side is the site of the 25+ foot lines that we closed last week. This is where Jacks Ideal Johnson V5/6 is. Jack cleaned it and sent first go. I on the other hand took my time to make it to the last scary dead point. After several tries and copious skin loss, I decided to try and send next week.

The trip was a success though. I played with a borrowed flash and I believe that I took a few nice shots. Jack took a few nice ones too I might add. In total this area now has 2 V2's, 3 V3's, 3 V4's, 2 V5's, 1 V5/6, 1 V 6, and over 25 lines yet to be climbed. And there are too MANY lines for me to ever be able to climb in my life here.

This weekend I am planning on heading to Mitake for some bouldering and shooting. I have lots of work to do with this flash technology. Monday I am going to Joyama with Hiroko and Shuji. Shuji and Hit Chan are working some projects so I hope I can take some sweet shots of them in action!!! We will see. There is a cool looking 12a that Jack put up there that I want to get on. Should be fun.

Enjoy the pictures and remember.....



Go Climb Something!!!!!
Sunday, May 1, 2011



















Here are some photos from today's visit to the new area. Hiroko and Shuji came out from Tokyo to check this place out. They really like it. What a fun place to climb.