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Friday, May 29, 2009

Record Searching is Fun!


So I started to collect records. Star gave me a turntable for xmas, with a slue of records ranging from Nat King Cole to the Beetles. My brother that same year save me a old Stones LP that we used to listen to.

I remember when I would drive up to Baton Rouge to hangout with my brother. We would listen to old LPs and just chill. Those are some of the fondest memories that I have. That is probably were most of this love for old records comes from.

I wanted to check out some of the record stores here in the city, so I went to the closest one, The Mushroom. It is just as much of a head shop as it is a record store. Which is cool, but I just wasn't feeling the vibe there. I did find a Clapton record that is in great condition.


I heard from a friend, Blake, that there was a better record store on Magazine, Jim Russel's. He was right. Star and I took a quick excursion there yesterday. We did not have a ton of time, due to the dinner party in three hours. JR's is great. They have an amazing selection. This is a real record store. Now I have not been to many record stores, but JR's has the largest selection of Records I have ever seen. I was looking for a Erma Thomas LP, which they did not have, but there selection of jazz and blues is extensive. I talked to the lady that was working there with her daughter, and she said that they try and specialize in Louisiana musicians, but regularly order records weekly. So they could order what ever you want, and have it in that week. Of course a rarer album will take a tad bit longer.


So I made it back to the rock section and found several great albums. Including Stones greatest hits 64-71, U2 Rattle and Hum, and a special birthday present for Star, The New Kids on the Block. The best part of my finds was a Bob Dylan Greatest Hits, in mint condition. That's not the best part. It still had the original album art inside!!!!!! I showed it to Star but she had a look on her face of unaware and of "Fuck no, that's not going on our wall!!!!!!" I explained to her how rare this was and she only saw my excitement towards a record. The art by the way is in mint condition too. RARE. The lady was asking $50, but of course I paid less than that.

When we got home I told my friend, Sam, that I found the album and what I paid for it and he was thrilled. He had bought it a few weeks ago online, after may unsuccessful bids at locating one with the art work.

I want to have a close friend of ours, who by my eye, an amazing carpenter and artist, make a frame for it. That dude is so busy.
We will see.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Learnig to repair shoes




So I am lame. I use a pair of road cycling shoes to commute to work in and I use them to single track in. I is the only pair I have. Last night I was headed to meet my wife at the hospital to help her study for her M&M presentation. On the way the Velcro ripped off of my Diadora's. I did not think anything of it at first but then when I tried to de-clip I was unsuccessful. I skirted a hard fall, just barely. I made it home OK. I sat down and had a beer. I thought that these shoes were cashed. I thought about how long I had them for and realized that I had owned them for almost six years. This was the first time that I had an issue with them, so I think that is a good run for $30 shoes. Right?



Wrong, I needed to get another six years out of them. I found my old sew kit. This took some searching. I started to sew and realized that the needle would slide through the Velcro with ease, but the poly outer layer would prove to not be so easy. I would ultimately use the top to a Camelbak bottle to push the needle through. This would stop the needle from continuing to puncture my finger. I have only sewn a few times, but I grew up watching my mother sew all the time. How hard could it be.
Sewing is not incredibly hard, but I think that there is a better technique to use that I am unaware of. I used the string that came in the packaging with the needle set, which did not list the tensile strength of it's contents. How frustrating.

I wond up with a bike shoe with all of it's original pieces connected in it's almost original fashion. I will test out my work to day on my commute. Stay tuned, maybe I will start a sewing business. Maybe I'll call it "Dirtbag Repair: Sewing, Straight from the Underground". Or maybe I will be buying a new pair of bike shoes, trail shoes this time.
Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Bouldering Gym in New Orleans



Being a rock climber in Louisiana is not always easy, see Life as a Louisiana Climber below. Especially with the closest climbing gym 45min away. There used to be a climbing gym here in NOLA but did not come back after the hurricane.
So my friend Alex and I decided that we needed to build one. A bouldering area that is. Alex had built a small one before and I have never tried to build one before this one. We found a great spot in the warehouse where I work. The ceilings are 15ft high, with a large area width wise for future expansions. The ceiling of the warehouse has 1/2 inch iron c-beams.



When we were in the early stages of design, ie pen, paper, and tons of dreams, we wanted to have three sections the width of a sheet of plywood. These sections would be different angles varying in difficulty. We decided to use steel studs due to their reasonable cost and ease of fabricating. I have helped my parent build a house out of steel, so I was familiar with different fabrication techniques.



As we started with the first section we used 1 1/2 in anchors to secure studs to a brick wall. And anchors (1 1/2 in) in the ceiling. In the ceiling we were able to secure four studs to the c-beams. When we had not attached the plywood yet, the studs seemed very flimsy. But I remember this being the case growing up with my parents house.
Before you can attach the 3/4 in plywood to the structure, you must drill holes every square foot, that way we were able to insert t-nuts. This was the part of the wall that took the longest. Star helped us throughout this process and really started to show some talent with a drill (Hey baby if medicine does not work out, you always have construction). After this we attached the first piece of ply to the bottom of the wall. This one piece stabilized the wall dramatically. We added the rest of the wood, three and a half sheets total. We immediate added holds to create a route and started to run laps on it.



We knew right way that this 60 degree way would not suffice, even for a short time. We started a few days later to on the next section. This section was planned to be 45 degrees but would turn out to be 44 degrees. Very close for two guys with international business degrees. Where there is a will, there is a way. We connected the walls with a flat surface that would be a great point to transition between the two walls. We currently have over 200 holds on the wall. I think that we need twice as many.
It took a total of about 50hrs to build the wall. With a total bill of $450 in materials. Most of this was donated by the climbers that frequent the wall. The holds have been donated by many people, and the cost does not include any holds.
After this experience I will be building many walls in my future, especially with all of the moving that Star will be doing. But at least that way Star and I can try many different designs before we build one in our straw bail house in the southwest.


Sunday, May 24, 2009

Europe 4


So on 8 May 2009, at 5:30 in the morning Star and I headed on our most grand adventure together as of yet. We were headed to climb the 165m Aguglia at Cala Golorizte. An amazing beach surrounded by phenomenal cliffs and spires. Some touched and others yet to be developed.
We drove from our flat in Arbatax thru Baunei to a small parking lot. If you are planning to climb here and you arrive before the parking lot opens park before the camping sites. This will ensure that the farmers that own the parking lot will not think that you are trying to cheat them out of paying to park. There are tales of arriving back from a day of climbing to a car that has all four tires slashed.
We started the hour and a bit hike in. There is a marked path to Goloritze. The path a rock path, with cairns along the way that have GOLORIZTE carved into them.
The hike which starts out going up is very easy. It is made at a very low grade so many people will be able to enjoy this magical area. After you reach a flat section, you start your decent. You start to have short glimpses of the Spire. We passed by old Shepard huts along the way, which is a reminder at how old this island truly is.
Once we arrived to the base of the Aguglia we were totally captivated at her beauty. We did not have a full idea of the surrounding beauty, but this would become more apparent as we ascended Aguglia. The route that we had picked out was Easy Gymnopedia, 6c, 6a obbl. The rock is pockmark covered. And there is a wide rang of diversity, of features, on this route. This route is five pitches long with the 6c second pitch being the crux pitch. The routes goes like this:

Pitch 1 is 6a over a rocky ledge, then up a flake to a larger ledge.

Pitch 2 is the crux pitch. There is a very slight traverse right, then two bolts, crux move and bolt. The crux move is very well protected. You can aid it easily. Then over another bulge to the next small ledge.

Pitch 3 has a small box at it with a summit book. This route moves up a delicate slab to another larger ledge. With a spot for a BD .5 or .75.

Pitch 4 traverses out left slightly to a somewhat exposed move that is protected with a BD #1, piton to a bolt at the finish, before the anchor.

Pitch 5 has a very delicate finish on a small piece of slab. This move to a decent sized ledge. Watch for loose rocks at the ledge!!!!!! This is not the summit. There still is 3m to the summit that is soloed. Very easy moves, to a bolt on top.

There was another team climbing next to us on another route from the start. We summitted at the same time. The summit was full that day. There were four of us up on top, with no more room for the third team that was just finishing there climb up Easy too. The third team bailed after they noticed that there was no room.
On top the other team, guys from Chec, started to abseiled down. At this point I pulled out the rings that I been caring in my trousers all day out. Star lit up even more by the sight of the rings we would wear for the rest of our lives. We exchanged our vows to one another and we wed on top of a wonderful spire in an even more amazing place, on an incredible island. the sun shown like I have never seen that day. Every moment of that day will be in my memory for ever.
After we abseiled down we headed to the beach and soaked in the most amazing atmosphere we have ever seen.
The hike out was rough. It took two hours of non-stop hiking to make it out. The sun was still high in the sky. We had started our day at 5:30am and finally made it back to the bar, that is located in the gated parking lot, for a beer at 6:30pm. There is nothing like a beer after climbing all day.
I would absolutely recommend this area to climb. But just remember that this is the most popular climb in all of Sardinia. So start early. Were were that around 7am and two teams showed up right behind us.
The next day we were headed to Cala Ganone. For a rest day at the beach. I wonder how long Eddie would make it just sitting there.
Thursday, May 21, 2009



As soon as I saw that Black Diamond had updated their Livewire I new that the best way to test them was to get a set and take them to Sardinia. The new design in my opinion is great. I really like the new functional ergonomic features.
First off is the weight. The new draw has a total weight of 106g from 111g of it's predecessor. When you are carrying 12 of them, that weight difference is substantial. The 12-cm long Vari-width dogbone has been improved from 12cm dynex.
The new hot forged keylock Dynotron biner on top and Livewire on the bottom are very nice to handle. When you’re feeling the pump after to or three hard pitches it is nice to have a smooth keylock biner for easy removal from your harness. Both of the biner’s new design include a tapered edge to help avoid fumbling while in route. The lower biner, Livewire, has ridges added to the spine of the biner. This feature helps add friction while opening the gate to insert your rope. The gate on the Dynotron is tapered as well, for ease in opening. The Livewire still comes with a wire gate to help cut weight.
These draws compared to the previous sets of draws that I have used in the past are a better fit for my style of climbing. I give these draws a thumbs up to anyone that can afford the $24.95 price tag.

New Orleans Bike Friendly?

I wish NOLA was more bike friendly. I commute to work on a bike and have been run off of the road several times. I work at a local outfitter and I frequently encounter people that have either been in an accident or a near accident on their bikes. There is only one bike lane that I know of in the city. And that path is not in a convenient location.

There is talk to build a green way path called The Lafitte Corridor( http://www.folc-nola.org/). I know some of the people that are involved in making this come to fruition and they are AWESOME. I really hope that they can cut through all of the red tape and bureaucracy of Louisiana and make this happen. NOLA really needs this type of improvement. Massey's, the outfitter I work for, gives a 10% discount for anyone who rides their bike to the shop. This is a great incentive, if you're a gear head like I am, to totally transform your life from four wheels to two.


Go Ride A Bike!!!!
Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Upcoming Trip To Wyoming

I am starting to plan my trip out west. I am super pumped. This is a very rough draft that will probably be changing in the coming days. I think that the desired trip route will be as followed:

Head to Houston to visit with Bruce. Maybe I can convince him to come to Austin with me to do some climbing. Then its off to Van Horn to check out Lasca Rd. Picnic area. I will be staying south in the 10 as of today. I really want to check out Hueco Tanks. It will be very hot but there has to be shade somewhere. And I will not be there for a long time. That's how I justify it to myself.

Then I will be moving thru New Mexico. Stopping off in Las Cruces to check out Organ Mt. I am thinking that I can either stop in Sandia Mt. or Cochiti Mesa around Albuquerque. I am not solid on this yet. I want to do some riding as well. So which ever has better trail is where I will be.

Off to Colorado next. Probably straight to Denver to have Chris's car checked. And stay in Boulder that night. I would like to meet up with some of Chris's friends and climb but this is way in the air at the moment.

I will drive thru Cheyenne and Lander to make it to Grand Teton and the Bassetts in four to five days.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Europe 3


On May 6th Star and I arrived in Cagliari. We rented a car and headed up thru the mountains towards Tortoli. The island of Sardinia is amazing. tar nor I have ever experienced anything like it. The flora reminds us both of the southwest US. Which if you do not know is where we hope to live someday. The fauna on the other hand is not locale. The farmed animals are pigs, goats, sheep, and cows. One of my favorite cheeses comes from this great island, pecorino.
We zigged a few times when we should have zagged, which added a hour or so to our drive. But the views were amazing. We arrived at The Lemon House to meet Peter and Anne. Peter gave us the beta for the surrounding are and the keys to our flat. We headed to our wonderful flat for a much needed rest for the next days events. We woke every morning and ate breakfast an a flower covered balcony.
Star and I met up with Peter on the 7th of May. He was going to show us a few spots to climb and climb with us that day. We headed to Pedra Longa which is accessed by a very steep road. We passed by several crags that Peter helped to develop. When we arrived to Pedra Longa and had an amazing view of Punta Giradili. I really wanted to drop everything I was doing and head for Mediterraneo 7a, 6b obbl. It is the line farthest to the left right before the huge cave. There is another beautiful line up the most pronounced part of the face named Wolfgang Gullich 7a, 6a obbl. I want to go back and climb these routes some day.

We headed back up and hiked to Creuza de Ma', which is a road side crag with a 5 minute approach. There are routes from 5a to 7b+. We started on Geordie 5a. Then the Route to the left to the same anchors Amore Che Vai 5b. Then on to Amore Che Vieni 5c. We were taking our time trying to get used to the quality of the rock. The limestone in this area is wonderful. Very good quality. Not bomber in all areas, but very good overall. To the left again was a beautiful arete that would turn out to be my favorite climb of the day. Tough move low with the crux up top under a slight lip. The climb was L'amore Vecchia 6a+. Peter and Star liked the previous climb more but I preferred the moves on L'amore. I led it, then Star, and then Peter.
We next moved around the bend so Peter could check out the moves on a route he has been eyeing. He worked the moves and wound up linking the route. We climbed Dolce Luna 6b and Il Gorilla 6b/c. Il Gorilla was my kind of route. Overhung and pumpy. I loved this route, but it was the last climb of the day and I sat at the crux. Star liked it but she was tired as well. The view to say the least the entire day was rather breathtaking.

We left and headed for a pizza joint next to our apartment. It was rather disappointing. Very thin crust and VERY oily. We ate fast and headed home for some shut eye. We had a very big day for the next day. We would be headed to Cala Golorizte to climb the 165m Aguglia.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Europe 2

The Beautiful Arco Castle.



Who said that traveling in Europe is easy? It is convenient, but not easy if you are not used to the form of transportation in Europe.


Star and I were headed to Arco Italy for two days of climbing. Well, that two days turned to one very fast. After a very complicated change of train to bus we make it to within 30 km of our B&B. We were in Arco but our flat was in A village over a pass. We were headed there on our second bus of the day, and decided to hop off and cancel the B&B and find a hotel in town. We jumped off right in front of a hotel that looked very fancy. We were tired of traveling and decided to check it out. We walked in and asked if they had a room. They did. Great!! Now how much? It was only 70 euros a night. And that included breakfast. We were floored. This was great. The room was sweet. We set up our room and headed to a bike shop to rent a bike thru the next day. We ended up with some great rode bikes. It is a law in most of Europe that your bike have lights on them and a horn.
We went into town and had a bit to eat. I did not realize that there were five climbing shops in town. I was in heaven, or so I thought. It was great to have the complete access to all of the gear that I could ever want. And all of the brands that are not available in the US. I would find out the next day that this was a blessing and a curse. The next morning we headed to one of the most classic areas of Arco, Massone. Massone is a great climbing area. It is easy to access, has a wide range of climbing grades, and is beautiful aesthetically.
The View from Massone.
We rode our bikes about twenty minutes from our hotel to the crag. There is even an outhouse at the base of the crag. That should have been a clear indicator. We hiked the two minute approach and noticed that there was about twenty climbers in sector A alone. We were able climb a couple of routes to warm up. We started on a 5a, Zac, an easy slab on pockets climb.
Star on the first climb of the day.
Next we climbed a 5c, that was sloppery in the beginning and over hung up top. Both were very fun climbs. After Star's feet hit the ground after the second route there were 40 people in sector A. It was time to head to sector B and C.

View of sector B.

All the rest of the climbs that we climbed in Massone were completely polished. The routes were great routes but not fun because of how polished they were. This was the curse of Arco. There is so much rock close by and the access is very easy. It is a uber popular area. The rock is so polished the climbs are almost entirely marble. The grades are two harder because of it.

In sector B we started on a 5b, Impetrife's, then Over Booking, a 6a. Over Booking was my favorite climb of the day. OB was a jug fest up a light over hang. We finished the day moving from each route thru a sea of climbers. Easily 60 to 70 people. Our last climb was Stattento, a 6a. Way to hard for 6a because of the marble.

We left Massone and headed for a bite to eat and to pack for our next move to Sardinia. This is the most anticipated part of the trip for me. I am so happy to be marring Star, the love of my life.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Europe 1

We had arrived in Europe via Munchen, Germany on April 29th. The weather was not very good but we were thrilled to finally be there. Star and I took a taxi that was prearranged by our friend Daniel, whom we were off to meet in Innsbruck, Austria. After two hours we met up with Dan in the town square. The town of Innsbruck is a beautiful place. The area around Innsbruck is wonderful. The view from the city of the mountains is one that I wish to wake up to one day. We hiked up to a mountain hut and had lunch on the second day. It was great. There was still a substantial amount of snow on the ground. There were a ton of bikers out on the trails too. It was Austria's labor day the day of the hike. That night I was very sick. Star suggested that I might have salmonella food poisoning. I felt like shit. She put my on an electrolyte concoction that tasted like whale sperm, do not ask why I know what whale sperm taste like, I just know. We were intended to head for Venice the next day, but there was no way that I was going to be able to ride a train in the morning. Daniel found us a train later that day so we were able to head out but with only one day in Venezia.



We arrived in the early evening and after a short debacle to find the correct bus to our hotel we had arrived to a fabulous hotel, The Hotel Villa Dori. A quint B&B across from the island. We were able to ride a hotel shuttle in the morning to the city.Our time in Venice was very fun. Venice is not a large city, but there is a ton to see. We first went to Moreno to see the beautiful glass. Star was overwhelmed with the shops. We spent some time watching a man blow some glass and headed to Saint Marco Square. In Venice the best way to get around is to ride the water buses. That was the preferred form of transportation for us. The Square is enormous. I forgot how amazing all of the sculptures and statues were. I was reminded the moment we arrived. There were a large amount of people in the square so we headed for lunch. After a light lunch we hiked around Venice and tried to absorb as much as we could. By the end of the day we had seen the wooden bridge, San Marco, the grand canal, Moreno, and we took a gondola ride at sun set. We had a great time in Venice. I am sure glad that I was wearing my Patagonia rock guide pant. They breath great. When we would hike between sights I was very sweaty. As soon as we would stop and eat or visit another magnificent work of art my pants would dry within minutes. AMAZING!!!